17

I picture a jig of the same diameter as the circle so that it can't bow out but I wonder if there are simpler ideas. Likely this would apply as well to other things and not just circles... other polygons with a large number of sides. Lots of people use ratchet straps to clamp odd shapes together: (source) These are nice because they apply a consistent ...


12

The problem appears to be that glue has sealed the pores of the wood, preventing stain from penetrating. In order to fix the stain, you'll first need to get to wood that's not sealed. I can think of two options: Remove the glue from the wood. You might be able to use a solvent appropriate to the kind of glue you used to loosen and weaken the glue, and then ...


12

Wood stabilization typically refers to reinforcing wood against inherent defects or weaknesses. In turning, stabilization may mean anything from filling cracks with epoxy, to impregnating the wood with resin. More generally, you can stabilize a crack with a butterfly inlay or you can again use epoxy or some other filler. In the case of turning, the ...


11

So which is it? Is there a difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch? Yes and no. A Dutchman can be the shape of a butterfly (also called a bowtie) as well as many other shapes. But a butterfly in modern usage typically means a wooden fixing to secure or stabilise a crack. This is yet another example (of many!) of terminology being used ...


10

A dutchman patch is basically using wood to fill a void larger than can be done with filler alone. A butterfly patch is typically used to prevent a check from getting larger, or to reinforce a joint. You could consider a butterfly patch to be a specific case of a more general dutchman patch.


10

Catalog sites or local woodworking stores will likely sell a glue injector- it looks like a big needle. It's most often used to inject glue into chair joints. Use a small screwdriver to open up the crack a bit, then use the injector to get glue in there, then pull the screwdriver and let the crack close. If the crack is small, you may not even need to ...


10

I have used ratcheting band clamps on curved shapes with very good results. ( I could not find an image using the clamp on a circular form, but the principle is the same.) Rather than applying pressure in a single direction it provides uniform pressure towards the center.


10

In the past removal of old finish from floors was done manually, by scraping, and it does a superb job and doesn't generate large volumes of dust. But it's backbreaking labour and can't be recommended to anyone not used to this sort of exertion, and especially if working on anything other than a small area. These days the standard way to refinish solid-wood ...


10

I remember hearing a while ago that sawdust and wood glue can be used as a wood filler to fill in gaps and imperfections. Yes you can do this, but note that the term "sawdust" might be slightly misleading here. Commonly when this sort of thing is done at home it uses sanding dust, not actual dust from sawing which would tend to have a range of particle ...


9

Shellac primer is the way to go maybe more than one coat and you should allow it to cure, which is different than drying. I use spray cans of this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-B-I-N-White-Advanced-Synthetic-Shellac-Primer-4-Pack-271009/205421238?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cBase&gclid=CJP986HPzsYCFQ-PaQodAm0B7g&gclsrc=aw.ds Spray the spots that ...


9

If the defect were in a location that was not subject to wear and abuse, you could fill the defect with wood putty. After it cured, you could sand it down, and finish to taste. Unfortunately, this location will get beat up further, and the wood putty would just chip off. A better possibility is to make a "patch" out of a similar piece of wood. Trim away ...


8

Unless you want to refinish the whole table, this is really just going to come down to trial and error. Find some scrap wood, head down to the store to find some similar looking stains / oils / etc., and keep trying on scrap until you find something. You're probably not going to get the finish exactly right. You might also want to take a look through these ...


8

Almost every glue commonly in use won't take stain, and one or two that are said to stain don't stain as well as you'd like (similar story with 'stainable filler' incidentally) so it's good practice generally when glueing to take steps to prevent squeeze-out being left on the surface of the wood. The main ways people do this include wiping up the glue ...


7

I suspect that it actually isn't going to get any worse. However, what is generally accepted practice is to use epoxy. If you want to hide the crack and patch you can mix in some sawdust, in this case maple sawdust would be best. As an alternative, you could mix in some other colorful stuff to make it pop. Ground turquoise is a common choice for this. Of ...


7

You didn't mention what type of glue you're trying to use for the repair, but if this is just a minor cosmetic defect it may be a nice application for CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, aka superglue. It's thinner than wood glue so it'll be easier to get it to seep into the crack. You can use compressed air to blow the glue into the crack, or if the crack goes all ...


7

The only entirely foolproof way I know to remove deep, long-set water marks is to sand to bare wood, restain (if your piece was stained) and refinish. However, fresh, less deep stains may be more easily remedied, as I've found with some quick internet research. Doing a quick google search has found the following home remedies. I have not tested any of ...


7

Best method for killing boring beetles is to use heat. Warming the wood to a set temperature for a designated length of time will eradicate the beetles and their larvae. Beetle type determines the length of time and duration of applied heat. Powderpost beetles 54.4 degrees Celsius/130 degrees Fahrenheit for 2-4 hours in a kiln Deathwatch beetles 56 degrees ...


7

I can think of a few solutions to this problem but I'm not sure how palatable any one of them will be to you or to the owner of the chest given the age of the piece. I'm afraid I also have no idea how any of them might affect value as the furniture market is full of arbitrary standards on what is OK to do to old pieces and what is not. New bottoms The ...


7

Wow, that is a wonderful piece of art! I assume that this will be displayed inside in which case the 'elements' will consist of temperature, dust, handling, and light. Temperature-wise the piece will do well in a residential setting, especially if the space is air conditioned (more consistent temperature and humidity which can affect the wood and could ...


7

It appears you are on the right track. It should be possible to repair the piece by gluing it. You will need 3 or 4 clamps to keep the loose piece in full contact with the board shown in the photo. Use a wood glue such as Titebond (1,2, 0r 3 will all work) available at hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes. Place ample glue on both contact faces liberally ...


7

You're going to have to make this look worse before it looks better. The first step is *gulp* to lightly sand or scuff the entire surface until the existing scratches aren't evident, and then do one of the following to restore shine: polish the surface of the existing varnish add fresh polyurethane. Polishing the surface is the harder of the two options ...


6

I have used the very thin CA glues such as this stuff from Titebond in the past. It works very well. It is about as thin as water. If you plan on finishing the surface with a stain, you should probably test it first on a scrap to make sure it won't blotch. Ripping down the crack and re-gluing works well also, but you lose some width from the board.


6

I would say that it is more likely that this joint failed due to the moisture from watering the dirt rather than being outside. Simply re-gluing it and keeping it inside will not be enough to fix it. I can foresee a few options Glue up the joint again as it was and this time line the planter with plastic so that the moist dirt does not come in direct ...


6

all epoxies are food safe once fully cured This may be an overstatement. Food-safe epoxies do exist. In order to be considered "food-safe," the ingredients need to meet FDA CFR 175.105 & 175.300 (in the United States, at least). McMaster-Carr has some for sale. Permabond makes some. West Systems, another well-known epoxy maker, specifically states ...


6

This sort of repair is doable, but fair warning, getting a truly seamless repair is challenging to extremely difficult (read: nearly impossible without experience). the same black satin look. First thing re. the surface finish, in the photos the piano looks not satin but gloss, which is what one would expect on a piano. Satin more normally refers to ...


6

As the picture of the underside of the chair isn't showing currently I'm not entirely sure I have the right picture in my head about what's going on underneath, so I may revise this once the link to the pic is fixed. It seems you have multiple issues you need to address here, the first with the screws popping loose from their holes and then the bigger ...


6

I would use filled epoxy for this, it's probably the best thing going as it's very tough, bonds very firmly to the wood and can be extremely cheap. Possibly best of all you make as much as you need when you need it without any worries of buying more of a product than a single project needs and having the rest go off sitting on the shelf Once fully set ...


6

Yes, that is a method still in use. You can use it to fill gaps. But, the unfortunate thing about this method is... You create a place on wood that is different in absorbing the oil/stain that you apply. But it depends on your stain colour and wood's colour also. If they are both darkish, it will not be a problem. But if your wood is lightish and the stain ...


5

It seems unlikely to me that wood filler will hold well because it's a surface repair and therefore wouldn't stand up under the strain of being attached to a hinge. Well there's wood filler and there's wood filler. There are few commercial varieties that would be suitable for a repair of this nature, but that's simply because they're primarily intended for ...


5

Easiest would be splicing in a little triangle reinforcement. As described in this article. You will need to clamp the corner closed when you make the cut in them and glue it up again. Here is the required cut in the box depicted with a half finished computer case: (image source)


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