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20

You may be able to avoid chip-out by using a sacrificial board atop of the countertop. Set your depth to cut through the sacrificial board, make sure it is clamped down tight and give it a whirl. Oftentimes reducing chipout is best accomplished by not giving the wood any direction to chip (e.g., a strongly sandwiched surface)


14

Don't make marks where they will show up on the finished piece in the first place. Prefer marking in places so the mark will be on the inside or use masking tape to hold the identifying marks.


8

@Peter Grace provided an excellent suggestion of placing a sacrificial board atop the countertop. An alternative solution is to mount an auxiliary zero-clearance shoe onto your circular saw shoe. Fashion it out of a thin piece of plywood, rout it to match the existing shoe profile, and plunge cut through it so the opening is just the width of the blade. ...


8

It wasn't until I noticed that my once tight-fitting dados were now loose that I realized that I almost sanded through the top layer of the plywood in my efforts to remove the marks. You're not the first person to do something like this striving to erase layout marks or notes from wood by sanding and you won't be the last. It's the kind of thing that ...


7

The two suggestions, for the crayons, that I have heard of are: Light planing where the marks are. It has the advantage of targeting where the marks so that you are not actually removing the wood at all. Just the crayon that is sitting above the wood. This should not damage the blade. I read the question again and this might not be an ideal solution for ...


7

With a handsaw, one trick is to score through the veneer with a straightedge and sharp knife. Then use a finely-toothed blade, and let the blade do the work rather than trying to force it into the wood --always good practice, but especially in this situation. You may want to experiment with cutting angles, to cut less perpendicularly to the veneer surface. ...


6

A band saw is fine. I would recommend that you avoid low tooth counts such as 3 tpi (teeth per inch) and opt for a smaller/denser tooth blade. Don't get to aggressive, instead feed it through slowly to get a cleaner cut line. In gluing up veneer always keep things symmetrical front to back (including thicknesses of the layers), alternating directions ...


6

It depends on your goal. The "right" way to fix it would be to strip the old damaged veneer and re-veneer the piece. If it isn't a valuable piece and you don't want to remove and redo the veneer, there are a couple potential options depending on the type and amount of damage. veneer is worn through somewhere in the middle: carve out the defect and inlay a ...


5

Buy a new door. Refinishing Unless there's something unusual about the door that's not evident from the description it literally isn't worth the time and effort to strip and refinish. Even if you price your time at $0.00 (which is fine, many do for home projects) there's a strong argument to be made that it's still not worth the costs involved, unless you ...


4

Older tables usually mean hide glue. Hide glue releases pretty well with warmth and a little moisture. I've used an clothes iron (steal one from the house) and a moist thin cloth towel. Work a small 8-10 square. Get it lifted off the surface by inserting a putty knife or a small flat metal spatula, work well to loosen things - insert waxed paper or ...


4

I've been advised to use a piece of glass and scrape it off, Glass can make a very effective scraper but not for this type of thing. I think it could pose a very real danger to the user. When scraping off something that is firmly adhered to a surface it is quite common for the tool to 'stall', come to a sudden halt, because it meets a great-than-average ...


4

In order that I try them, I always try the following to remove scuffs, pencil marks, and/or gunk that I get on things as I'm building: denatured alcohol mineral spirits lacquer thinner acetone turpentine Oh, another thing that I've used on particularly stubborn marks? And no, this isn't a product endorsement, and don't laugh.. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. ...


4

Veneers are very common on premade stair treads, but the question is could you apply a veneer on installed treads yourself and get similar results? It sounds like you have installed the treads and risers already. Veneers will wear like any wood, but the difference in factory treads is that they have applied the veneer with the right heat, humidity, and ...


3

This looks like plywood to me. It's pretty hard to tell without a better photo, but here's what I'm seeing... The panel on the left of the photo appears to be three bookmatched sections, but I can't quite tell if they're close enough to be veneers. The front edge of that panel appears to be edge banding, but without a higher resolution image or a shot from ...


3

Ok, so I ended up gluing felt-backed flexible birch veneer with PL Premium, the 3X stuff. I also had a tube of 8X, but I could barely manage to get it out of the tube, forget spreading. Some notes: Takes a lot of adhesive -- surface area slightly smaller than two standard risers took more than 2 tubes of PL, so have a few extra on hand. V-notch tile trowel ...


3

Regrettably when adhesive gets on to the surface like this there's really no good option but to remove the affected wood, usually by sanding or scraping1. You can, in theory, remove the adhesive from the wood by some sort of washing procedure including the use of solvents and this can work well sometimes. But even with glues that are more easily soluble (...


3

I am concerned that if I lever them off I will either snap the cast metal or damage the veneer. This is a valid concern and honestly I don't know the best course of action here. To help put your mind at rest about part of it though: since you're planning on painting that means you can fill any defects in the surface that might be created without them ...


3

Tidiest route would be to replace the entire top, or even just to fill the holes and layer another section of ply on top of the entire piece, and then round over the edges to make it look as part of the original. Without replacing the entire top I think it would be hard to hide this repair completely, but if you're happy to see some glue lines.... ......


3

The consensus is to store veneers flat. If you don't currently have somewhere suitable for the longest pieces consider installing a shelf high on a wall somewhere (or even from the ceiling!) in the home or garage so that it can be. Some quotes (my emphasis): Most veneers come as flat sheets, although flexible (paper- or adhesive-backed) veneer may be sold in ...


2

I would try an iron as well. In addition, you can just use a scraper and sand off the glue when you are finished.


2

Well, plywood is made of layers of veneir and furniture-quality plywood has one or both outer faces veneered with something prettier than the core. You could cutting/staining/gluing pieces of veneir to bring the low spots back up to roughly level with the rest of the table surface with a less-than-awful color match... Or you could fill it with colored ...


2

I'm fairly sure it would be fine to use a band saw, right? Yes it's fine to use a bandsaw for cutting your homemade plywood, just as with commercial plywood. There are a few things you can do to help get the cleanest cuts, regardless of the type of blade fitted. The first is perhaps obvious and that's to have the good face of your material facing upwards ...


2

How to tell what type of finish you have: Fortunately, you have some flakes. The finish is water damaged...that's why its lifting. Drop some of the flakes into a glass jar of denatured alcohol.....if they dissolve, you have a shellac finish. If not...put a few flakes into some lacquer thinner....if they dissolve, you have nitro or acrylic lacquer. These ...


2

As mentioned above solid lumber can be had in long lengths, also plywood can be had in in longer lengths a 12' would be difficult and expensive to get. Turn a problem into a feature use an 8' piece with 2' cross grain (bread broad like) on the ends.


2

I would use the order in your last technique you described but with these details : Cut the MDF to shape Apply the banding to the edge Use flush cut router to trim the banding to thickness of the MDF Apply veneer to the one side of MDF Use flush cut to trim veneer to match the edges – Do not round yet Apply linoleum on the other side of MDF Use flush cut ...


2

After looking at your pictures and seeing what you're after, I think I've got a better idea of what you're doing. If it were me, I'd cut all the box joints first. Your heavy power tools that you'd be using to cut them are far more likely to tear up your nice veneer layer if you were to apply it prior to cutting the joints. Usually veneer is applied last, ...


2

Use stain remover, and chip a thin layer of wood, then apply a new stain. But I doubt that the pressed veneer is thick enough to allow for any thinning. There's no fixing the existing veneer. Face veneers on plywood are very thin -- the internet says they're 1/30" on average, which means that half the time they're thinner than that. It might be a ...


2

Stain remover worked fine for removing most of the stain and other upper lacquer/sealer layers. A thin layer of veneer then was pressed on the door. All good without buying a new door. Todo: Upload before/after photos, alongside details. Update post after a year to report on the long-term effect.


2

If you think 'covering' the stairs is the best way to 'fix' the problem, I would go with a thicker laminate. something like 1/8-1/4" (3-6mm) This would be thick enough to handle a lot of wear, and would be much easier to attach to the current stairs. And still thin enough not to affect stair height much. You could use glue and/or small finishing ...


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