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27

This is an extremely common phenomenon and there's nothing you can do to prevent it entirely. You seem to be well aware of the standard bit of advice going back to the days of slotted screws, that it is vital to press hard to fully engage the driver with the screw. But unfortunately with power driving and Phillips-head screws it is virtually inevitable ...


24

Counter-sinking prevents murder. (that is, wood grain murder) Driving a screw into a hole that isn't counter-sunk will have a very small point of contact, which exerts brutal sheer forces and tears the wood grain apart. Hammering in a nail is pretty much the only thing you could do worse. A counter-sunk screw, on the other hand, has a large contact ...


16

If you'd like to go the glue-only route, a lock miter might be just the thing. They are available as router bits and make a profile similar to this photo: I could not say for certain whether the angle is complimentary to your design, most lock miters I find are for 90 degree joints which might be a pretty severe angle for a roof. @Doresoom mentioned in ...


16

Any screw can be modified to make it self-tapping and the process is surprisingly easy. All that's required is to create one or more cutting edges and the clearance needed for the swarf, and the existing threading takes care of the rest (just as it does with manufactured self-tapping screws). The modification necessary can be a very quick operation, ...


14

Just to get it out of the way, this is the conventional/traditional wood screw: In the past it would always have been flat-head (now also called slot-head), and as a result when making a piece in a traditional style many woodworkers will insist on using flat-head screws so they look the part. Are there specific types of screws I should use for ...


12

For most hard woods using a pilot hole the size of the shaft of the screw should be good enough to prevent splitting, since it is the shaft that would be 'pushing' out on the wood. There are some that are hard enough that making the pilot hole larger than the shaft but still smaller than the threads is useful, but these are pretty hard woods and it is ...


12

You can buy countersink bits for your drill or hand-driven countersinks. Countersinking helps you set all the screws to a consistent depth without any danger of splitting or denting the wood. The countersink provides a crisp circle around the screw head. As Matt mentioned in his comment, you can buy self-countersinking screws which ream out some of the ...


12

Your milage will vary. I think it will depend on a lot of factors beyond the wood - type of screw used, screw head, method of driving them, temperature, etc. Some ways to make it easier to drive and avoid snapping the screw are: Larger pilot hole Larger screw, if possible (with a larger pilot hole) Lubricate the screws - a bar of soap works well Select a ...


11

It's called a plug cutter. (source: rockler.com) image shamelessly stolen borrowed from Rockler Cut your plugs from a scrap piece of whatever you're making your project out of. Also, a screwdriver makes an excellent pry-bar for breaking the plug out of the board. I don't recall whether with- or cross-grain is the way to go, but it should take less than ...


11

Metal patinas are a whole art unto themselves. I have used ammonia for brass, made stains with vinegar and so on. Sculptors spend a lot of time on this topic. Assuming your nails contain iron, then you are trying to form ferrous oxide, the black 'rust' (as opposed to the orange rust, ferric oxide). Almost any acid will do the trick. Acetic acid (vinegar) ...


11

Using a plow plane, you can quickly and easily make a groove and tongue joint like this: If you want more stability, you can make that a dovetail, either starting from the groove and tongue or using hand saw and chisel only (or, well, a milling table!). The tongue or dovetail should be perpendicular to the miter like so: Of course a groove with loose ...


11

Yes, there are hollow screw extractors like you describe, such as these two examples: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26 Unfortunately, they may be difficult to get started if you're unable to fit the part into a drill press and you aren't able to make a pilot ...


11

Unfortunately, the angled tip on Philips bits causes them to climb and slip, and round over their edges and/or strip the head of the screw. Often if you buy a pack of screwdriver bits for your drill, it will come with lots of #2 Philips bits because everyone knows that perhaps the most ubiquitous head and size, and at the same time it is very prone to ...


11

Consider to remove the screws and perform a counterbore or use a forstner bit to the depth of the screw head. Select the diameter to match your selected wood plug diameter. Return the screw, glue in the plug, sand the plug flush. You can purchase a wood plug cutter, sort of a hole saw without a center drill, and cut your plugs from the same wood, for a ...


10

Not a direct answer to your question but thought I'd add that if you can find a screw of suitable overall form but it's unfortunately not self-tapping you can modify them so that they are. Any screw can be modified to make it self-tapping, and the process is surprisingly easy. All that's required is to create clearance and effectively a cutting edge, or ...


10

What you have there The names of those are Cam Fittings, Furniture connectors or Flat pack connectors or variations of those phrases. These are a favorite amongst economical furniture suppliers (IKEA is a good example) as it enables the consumer to build it themselves. These are typically used for joining wood at a 90 degrees. While they are not the ...


10

Those are screws that are made to drill their own hole. The cutout bit at the tip is specifically made to bite into the wood more effectively. One tip with screws like this: a lot depends on the amount of pressure you're going to be able to apply in the actual screwing-in. If this is something where you can directly press on the driver, then typically you ...


9

Face mounting A standard hex nut (or a square one if available) can be inlet into the surface of a board to accept a machine screw or bolt coming in from the other side. Normally when face-mounted a hex-shaped hole is made, either by drilling the bulk of the waste out first with a suitable bit1 and then finishing off with a chisel, or entirely by chiselling:...


8

A biscuit joint would allow you to join these pieces without any screws while providing more strength than a joint where only the faces are glued together. Typically you require a special tool, a biscuit joiner to cut the hole but it can be done by hand too. A similar but simpler method is to just drill holes and use a dowel instead.


8

One major issue you should take into account is the weight being supported by the fastner. Most manufacturers will publish weight/load tables for their fastners, such as Quik Drive's table. That gives the various strengths of the fastner. You should then calculate how much strength you need - for example, you have a deck that is going to be big enough for ...


8

Less than thread diameter (8mm), minimum inner shaft diameter. The larger you go the easier it'll be to screw in but the less the threads will bite. Go as small as you can muster without splitting the wood. For coach screws in particular, since you wanted a chart, this may give you confidence (this isn't metric but the concepts are the same): In particular ...


8

Another thing that might help: although the brand of goldscrews that I use are described as being waxed/lubricated, for demanding jobs, or to max out cordless runtime, I use a smear of petroleum jelly or wax which eases insertion. I keep an old candle stub for this purpose. I feel that p. jelly is a better lubricant but a bit less convenient. It also gives ...


8

Pretty much anyplace you'd use sheet aluminum outside. Think roofing and home exterior finish work... they are used to attach the aluminum trim used to surround the roof, or on a home with aluminum siding with trim around windows. I think I've seen them in screen door frame construction as well. 3" screws would be perfect for making frames from extruded ...


8

So my question is, do I need to countersink these screws? Since these are going to be used on the floorboards and overlaid with another layer of subfloor sheet, so long as you screw these in enough that they don't stick proud of the floorboard surface, I see no need to countersink. And if I do what size of countersink tool should I use? It's hard to ...


8

It's called either a 'Sex Bolt' or a 'Binding Post Bolt'. Here's a page with some - https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dryp


7

You could soak it in vinegar. I know that steel wool dissolves in vinegar and completely rusted.


7

Sounds to me like you are describing a use for screw extractors (source: asklaptopfreak.com) Your drill needs to have the torque in order to get them in what's left of the head or shaft. They are drilled forward the reverse direction (lefty loosy) so that when the bit gets enough catch on the screw it gets pulled out. It can be harder to use these when ...


7

The washers you're looking for are "countersunk washers" or sometimes "brass screw cups". Here's an image from Lee Valley: and another from High Torque: Unfortunately, the countersunk versions that you want are often mixed up with regular old surface finishing washers like these:


7

Hammer drills are designed for working with masonry. Since you're driving the screws into lumber, you really don't need the hammer action for this job. Switch to a standard drill (or, if your hammer drill allows you to disengage the hammer action, do that) and lower the clutch setting to the lowest value that will get the screw head down to the wood surface. ...


7

In the linked design (above) for the desk they use butt joints and they use screws to construct the legs. But I was wondering if it would be better if I used wood glue. For some joints screws can be stronger than glue, but where face grain meets face grain a properly done glued joint is stronger than the wood itself, so not much need to reinforce that :-) ...


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