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I'm looking for options to create toy figures as seen in the attached pictures. The figures are wood and between 3/8 and 1/2 inch thick.

What type of saw, or would I need a CNC router to do this?

enter image description here

I’m hoping to make a lot of these so I don’t want to do this by hand. First time trying to make toy figures so just hoping to get some ideas and good advice.

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    What is 'a lot', how many? You must plan for sanding time!
    – Volfram K
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 5:05
  • Hi, welcome to StackExchange. There's never a best way to do anything, so I'm editing the body of the Question to remove that wording; asking for best is inherently likely to lead to subjective responses, based on opinions/personal preference, rather than what you really want which is a range of alternatives you can select from (based on what makes sense to you, can afford, etc.).
    – Graphus
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 14:33
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    As for the wood choice, you could almost literally make these out of anything — while a hardwood, as pictured, might seem the only reasonable pick (and there are numerous hardwood species you could choose from, depending on cost, availability etc.) the fact is that toys have often been made from pine, a softwood. Arguably the only thing to avoid would be balsa! Additionally, we actually have three previous Questions asking about suitable woods for toys so as a result I edited this portion of your query out entirely.
    – Graphus
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 14:39

3 Answers 3

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  1. Coping saw. But you don't want to do it by hand.
  2. Scroll saw. A powered version of the coping saw.
  3. Router and template. While a CNC router is nice, it's a bit pricey, where a simple 1/4" collet router and a pattern bit with a bearing will be much less expensive.
    • Note that the router will cut round corners. The inside corners at his legs will not come out square without additional work.
    • You may have trouble finding small enough router bits to get into the small areas at his neck and between his legs.

Realistically, if you don't want to cut by hand, you'll want to use a scroll saw. This is the type of work they excel at.

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  • This answer can only be improved by describing how you can cut out the square sections with a scroll saw -- assuming the usual blades that cut more like a very thin jigsaw blade.
    – user5572
    Commented May 31, 2022 at 21:27
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    Let's not forget the impractical water jet cutters and impractical high power laser cutters for this level of work. Fast, clean, easy, expensive.
    – fred_dot_u
    Commented May 31, 2022 at 21:55
  • @fred_dot_u laser!!! :)
    – Volfram K
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 5:07
  • Sorry, @fred_dot_u, I just went with reasonably practical and included the specific impractical one mentioned by the OP. You are, of course, absolutely correct in your additions to my list. ;)
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 10:38
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    This is almost literally the poster project for the scroll saw. Every entry-level book on the scroll saw has simple projects like cutouts, and they would often be toys just like this or at least similar figures (e.g. used to decorate bookends).
    – Graphus
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 14:42
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There's also the bandsaw. The scrollsaw has the advantage of being able to start in a hole in the middle of the work, but in this case it looks like you only need to cut the outline. (I'm assuming the thin black line between the man's body and arms is painted on) Depending on the tightness of the curves you might need a narrower blade.

I'm thinking though that if you had either of these saws already on hand you'd already know the answer. There's also potentially a jigsaw but I find this doesn't work so well in thicker wood. In the curves, the blade will deflect outward resulting in a side that is out of square.

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  • Assuming the OP doesn't already have the right tool for this as you are, I was thinking scroll saw all day every day. But the surprisingly small price differential between benchtop bandsaws and scrollsaws might make a bandsaw a really serious contender here (except maybe for the cost of the third-party blade) and in terms of future versatility there's no comparison!
    – Graphus
    Commented Jun 1, 2022 at 16:32
  • Good point, @Graphus. I bought a small bench top scrollsaw ages ago. I forced myself to use it a couple of times, and it's been sitting, gathering dust and being in the way ever since. About every 3rd time I'm working on a project in the garage now, though, I think, "hey, a bandsaw would be nice for this!".
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 11:10
  • @FreeMan I have inherited a scroll saw that I've used once to rough out a knife handle. I lost count of how many times I've wished for even a benchtop bandsaw. That being said, I inherited the scroll saw from someone who was into making toys like this, and it was invaluable for this purpose.
    – user5572
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 12:02
  • I have both. I use a bandsaw semi-frequently. I've only used the scroll saw once...but everybody and their mother seems to want to "borrow" it. When you need it you need it.
    – gnicko
    Commented Jun 8, 2022 at 22:05
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What type of saw, or would I need a CNC router to do this?

On the face of it, a scroll saw seems like the obvious choice. However, when you want to make a lot of something, it's a good idea to try to reduce the number of operations that you need to do per item. For that reason, I'd look at using a band saw, and specifically a 14" band saw, not a dinky little benchtop one. A typical 14" bandsaw can cut material up to 6" thick, and twice that if you add a riser block; a benchtop bandsaw is usually limited to about 3 1/2".

My thought is to cut the profile from a single, thick workpiece, so that you end up with one figure that's maybe 6" thick, and then slice that into several final-thickness figures. That'll save you a LOT of time compared to cutting each one out individually. Frankly, even a small band saw would let you do five or six at a time, which is still a huge improvement over one at a time.

Trying to cut a tall, skinny thing on a bandsaw is error-prone and dangerous, so start with a large workpiece and lay out as many figuress as you can fit. Try to do it such that you can do most of the shaping on the saw without cutting each blank free from the larger piece; that way, you'll be working with an object with a large base until you free them at the end. After you've cut the blanks free, sand the cut sides. You glue sandpaper to pieces of some of the waste material to make custom sanding blocks that will make sanding to much quicker.

Change to a wider, thin-kerf blade on the bandsaw and use the fence to slice each blank into figures. You'll want to practice a bit on scrap first; even with a fence, cutting a nice straight line on a bandsaw takes some getting used to. It's the best tool for the job, though, because a band saw takes the narrower kerf than any other saw except for a scroll saw.

A stationary disk sander or belt sander will help you sand the cut faces smooth. If you're really making a lot of these guys, take the time to make a jig that'll hold the figure and assure that they're held flat and sanded to a uniform thickness. I think that's really a whole other conversation, but the idea is to be able to insert the figure into the jig, sand it without having to think, flip it over and insert in another spot in the jig, sand again, and end up with a figure that's exactly the same thickness as all the others.

After that, you're ready to paint them. Again, that's probably a separate conversation, but I'd go with stencils and an airbrush to do as much as I could. This is an easy place to introduce some variation if you want to: you can just change the colors you use with the same stencils so that some have, say, a blue shirt and hat, and red overalls, different skin tone, etc.


If you really want to make a LOT of these figures, e.g. thousands, cutting them out a dozen at a time with a band saw isn't going to work very well. Instead, you'll want a spindle shaper, preferably one with three spindles. You'll also need three sets of custom knives: one set for each side, since those are different, and one for the top. You could get away with just two sets if you redesign the figure to flatten the brim of the hat and get rid of the crease in the top of the hat. Cut the gap between the legs with a table saw before you start the rest of the shaping.

Looking at your example figure, you can see that the two faces of the piece are end grain, which is why it's showing some cracks. I think it was probably made by using a shaper to cut the profile into one long stick, and then slicing the individual figures off that stick as above. Using a shaper would give you very consistent results, and might even eliminate the need for sanding.

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    I joked about laser but this! Spindle shaper would be approx 10k!!!! Also stock suggestion makes no sense unless Joe will make from pine..
    – Volfram K
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 4:47
  • @VolframK OP said they want to make a lot of them without specifying what that means or what their budget might be. I linked to a fancy shaper, but a single spindle can be had new for $2500, and even less used. Many species are suitable, not just pine.
    – Caleb
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 5:45
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    No overkill at all in that 3-spindle shaper. :D Unless, as stated, OP is making 1000s at a time. That'd be a serious piece of kit and take up a bit of floor space...
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 11:14
  • @FreeMan Yes, clearly the last part of my answer is aimed at how you'd do this job in a production environment, not a home shop. Even so, as I said above, single-spindle shapers can be had relatively cheaply -- I saw a used 2 hp unit for sale recently for $500. None of the other answers so far address making figures efficiently, which seems like an important aspect of the question.
    – Caleb
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 13:35
  • @FreeMan, "a serious piece of kit and take up a bit of floor space.." And additionally require custom cutters to be first designed and ordered (not cheap) and possibly rewiring by an electrician. And that aside, in a home-shop environment (which surely must be where the OP is at given the Q in the first place) it's possible they wouldn't be able to run one! Or at least they wouldn't if they're not prepared to face the wrath of neighbours, or worse, a jackbooted HOA ^_^
    – Graphus
    Commented Jun 2, 2022 at 15:19

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