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This is easily fixable, and shouldn't be too expensive although the cost of materials isn't negligible. All you have to do is remove the softly cured excess oil from the surface, which should take a …

This could be anything, including leaving the wood bare, a soap finish, waxing, oiling, shellac, "Danish oil", a waterbased finish, varnish, even a pour-on epoxy if you want a super-tough glassy surface …

I applied oil until the wood wouldn't soak it up any more. After that I let it sit for a few days with puddles of oil on the surface. I wiped off the excess. I don't know if this was the application …

This is tricky as a coloured version of a finish is doing two jobs at the same time, providing colour wood and adding protection. For many finishes three coats is considered the minimum number to pr …

There's no one answer to this. As always with finishing it depends. The most important variables in finish drying times are not the finishes themselves but your local conditions, principally the temp …

Is (pure raw cold-pressed) tung oil food-safe (for cooking utensils)? Almost certainly yes. Just to mention, almost any oil of vegetable origin would be as well. There's a small chance of indivi …

The full traditional oiling regimen could take an entire year from the point the woodworking was finished: one coat per day for a week, a coat per week for a month and then one coat per month for the rest … All guides to oiling will say that you have to wipe off the excess oil from the surface but these days, with the emphasis on how easy an oil finish is to do, very often they say you're done at that point …

In theory yes, but it might come around and bite you later. The effect of exposure to mineral spirits on the pad in particular is unknown, and many plastics and resins (which foam pads are made from) …

To what extent, if any, can I reuse mineral spirits? As I touch on in a previous Answer, you can re-use rinsing solvents a few times. The larger the volume you work with the more you can re-us …

See more on wiping varnish in this previous Answer. 1 Good oiling guidelines stress that the surface should basically feel dry after the wiping off/buffing stage. 2 Acetone isn't that toxic on the skin …

Does perilla oil have to be mixed with some kind of solvent before being applied to wood? If so, which solvent and in what proportions? There's no 'have to' when talking about diluting oils. This is …

There's a long tradition of oiling the soles of planes, with a variety of oils (I think the main one historically in the West being raw linseed oil). … That effect alone may be enough that you won't feel you need to try oiling the wood itself but experiment away if you want, there are no rules about what you can and can't do in your own workshop! …

What we're wondering about it is when we should retreat the wood. The basic rule is, when it looks like it needs it. After a certain period the wood will have started to look a little dry, pale …

My primary concern is the fact that it takes longer (days to weeks?) to oxidize than boiled linseed oil. Weeks at least, possibly months. Indoors, if the conditions aren't ideal, it could take a …

Yes you can absolutely use "teak oil" 1 in place of BLO. In fact I think if you did a direct comparison you'd decide that the results are superior, in all the ways you list — higher sheen (or at least …