Timeline for How to prevent short off-cuts from flying everywhere?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
14 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Aug 31, 2019 at 5:40 | comment | added | Graphus | "could have used the m.gauge at 45, but that would not have made a difference." It would have made all the difference. And it's the 'correct' way to do the cut you're making. Sorry, we're not here to lecture but you did come here seeking advice. There is a reason for the standard way a frame mitre is cut, why would you want to do it differently? It's slower (setup takes longer, every time) and more risky (the whole point of your Q in the first place). | |
| Aug 29, 2019 at 23:56 | comment | added | handyguy | i am using the blade tilt for the 45d mitre. could have used the m.gauge at 45, but that would not have made a difference. Best solution is a sled with a 45d slot, or extra cuts as I did to avoid any cut-offs. | |
| Aug 29, 2019 at 16:07 | answer | added | SaSSafraS1232 | timeline score: 2 | |
| Aug 29, 2019 at 15:49 | comment | added | SaSSafraS1232 | @Graphus Oh yeah this whole question makes so much more sense now! I'm betting the problem is that he has his fence on the wrong side of the blade so the offcut falls down onto the blade when it separates. I think we need an answer here that 1. explains using a miter gauge at 45 to cut picture frames and 2. explains which side of the tilting blade to use. | |
| Aug 29, 2019 at 7:19 | comment | added | Graphus | Hang on a second, if you're doing picture frames why is the blade tilted to 45°??? You only do that typically for box mitres (AKA case mitres), not standard frame mitres. I think we might be misunderstanding the exact cuts you're doing here. It would really help if you could post a picture of your setup. | |
| Aug 29, 2019 at 5:00 | comment | added | handyguy | I am mitering on a tablesaw, with the blade at 45 degrees, so I cannot use a zero clearance plate, of which I have several. I am also using a sacrificial backboard to the mitre gauge, to prevent tear-out. This provides and extended support to the right of the blade that drags the off-cut with it. Their is a big gap in the throat plate to the right of the blade (being tilted at 45d). | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 21:27 | answer | added | SaSSafraS1232 | timeline score: 0 | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 21:18 | answer | added | LeeG | timeline score: 3 | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:59 | comment | added | SaSSafraS1232 | I don't quite understand how the offcut is ending up in the miter gauge slot. The miter gauge should be on the opposite side of the blade from the offcut? Normally the offcut just drops off where it separates from the work piece, to the right of the leading edge of the blade... | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:56 | history | edited | SaSSafraS1232 | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
specify tablesaw
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| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:54 | comment | added | SaSSafraS1232 | Based on the tag (and the miter gauge) I'm assuming you're doing this on the tablesaw, but you don't state that anywhere in your question... | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:51 | comment | added | handyguy | I think I will just run the board through a couple times, so that the first off-cut is mostly saw dust. | |
| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:45 | review | First posts | |||
| Aug 29, 2019 at 13:52 | |||||
| Aug 28, 2019 at 20:40 | history | asked | handyguy | CC BY-SA 4.0 |