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Nov 6, 2015 at 19:17 comment added Jason C I still want a flatter table for large rips, although I have some ideas now; I've accepted this answer as "my expectations are too high [for the equipment that I own]", as I checked the table again as best as I could and it seems to be within Ridgid's claimed tolerance.
Nov 6, 2015 at 19:17 vote accept Jason C
Nov 6, 2015 at 18:29 comment added grfrazee @JasonC, that seems reasonable. Bear in mind that that's +/- 0.016", for a total of 0.032" possible difference between two places on the top. For comparison, 0.032" is about 1/32". Definitely workable for the usual woodworking chores and easy enough to account for in design if you have to make minor tweaks.
Nov 6, 2015 at 18:21 comment added Jason C In your opinion what is a reasonable, medium-end, flatness tolerance for a table saw table? Ridgid claims a 0.016" manufacturing tolerance for this particular saw.
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:49 comment added grfrazee @JasonC, I would ask another Question for your replacement surface issue. Comments are a poor format to handle that discussion.
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:41 comment added Jason C Thanks. I'm happy with the explanation that my observations are on par with Ridgid's usual quality level. I'll have to work around it using some of the advice from that other question about cheap table saws. I'll give grinding the slide down a shot. I'm going to do more detailed checks with a square to try to get a clearer idea of where the problems are. But what can I do for a replacement surface for ripping that keeps the fence functional?
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:35 comment added grfrazee @JasonC, if your miter slide rail is sticking proud of the miter slot, you might have to do some material removal on it too.
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:35 comment added grfrazee @JasonC, Ridgid is a second-tier tool manufacturer, as far as I'm concerned. Their stuff works, don't get me wrong, but the fit and finish aren't on par with some of the better toolmakers.
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:34 comment added Jason C (The measurement jump was mainly because either a) the table to the right of the throat plate is higher than the part on the left, causing the wood to hit the right edge and raise suddenly, or b) the miter slide rail is higher than the table, causing the wood to plunge slightly into the previously misadjusted throat plate, hitting the right edge, or c) both. In both cases it's a table issue of some sort. I could repeat this experiment with the other miter track, but at this point I'm not sure how much value it would add.)
Nov 5, 2015 at 19:32 comment added Jason C The throat plate is actually inset a bit (or it was, now it's level), the lighting in that picture just makes it look like it's sticking out. There are set screws around the edge for adjustments. It's a Ridgid table saw, I don't know what their usual level of quality is but I can tell you it was purchased at a particular Home Depot that often seems to sell products that didn't pass manufacturer QC, particularly power tools. Still for the price I paid I'm not too unhappy. I'm going to see if I can shim it up a bit before I try making a new surface for it.
Nov 5, 2015 at 16:56 history answered grfrazee CC BY-SA 3.0