Timeline for How to put long screws (3-4inch into hardwood)
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
12 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| May 17, 2021 at 5:27 | comment | added | Woodworking Devil | Aloysius no I wasn't I am under the impression that it should not be necessary for wood. In hindsight drill in slow speed high torque instead of high speed mode was a mistake though. I am thinking higher speed - less burn. And more passes - less clogging. | |
| May 17, 2021 at 0:34 | comment | added | Aloysius Defenestrate | One last question: were you drilling in hammer mode? (I ask because you specifically mention that your drill is a hammer drill.) | |
| May 16, 2021 at 17:11 | comment | added | Graphus | Hope I've addressed everything important below in the Answer. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 17:10 | answer | added | Graphus | timeline score: 3 | |
| May 16, 2021 at 14:50 | comment | added | Aloysius Defenestrate | Side comment: your robertson bit is probably old and dulled -- a good quality new bit (and good screws of course) won't pop like that. Your 3/16 drill bit might have been a perfectly good clearance hole, but it sounds like you drilled all 3" of the depth. If you had to rehab this, I'd smear a bamboo skewer (like, food skewer) with glue, push it to the bottom of the drilled hole, let it dry for a while and then re-drill just the clearance hole. If that doesn't grab, redrill with the 1/8" bit and add another skewer. Rinse, repeat. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 7:40 | comment | added | Woodworking Devil | Also I noticed my drill has 2 speeds, is high speed low torque beneficial for drilling hardwood? | |
| May 16, 2021 at 7:22 | comment | added | Woodworking Devil | I'll try to drill in short bursts withdrawing more often I didn't know bits actually clog up, and get some wax for the screws I saw it in YouTube videos a few times never had a situation where it was actually necessary but didn't even think of it today when it actually could've helped. Yes these are Robertson and unfortunately #2s which I think is a bad choice for longer screws like this (most shorter 8 screws are perfectly fine with #2) they just pop out of the impact even if the impact has a lot of strength. Would a brace really have more power than a power impact driver? | |
| May 16, 2021 at 7:22 | comment | added | Woodworking Devil | I agree it's definitely a nice flat long to long grain so glue is the way to go. I actually ended up using epoxy because I was a little over concerned that when I sanded off the dried up remains of old wood glue I created a bit of an uneven surface. But from my understanding they are both very strong hold. So about the drilling, is 1/8 a good thickness of predrills for 8 screws? It does work well for pine, it didn't work at all here. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 6:57 | comment | added | Graphus | "What was I doing wrong?" Well in drilling you could probably have done with 1, much more frequently withdrawing the bit (twist drills are famous for their ability to pack solid with swarf and once that happens forward advance basically becomes impossible, with stuck or broken bits the likely outcome) 2, a more powerful drill (cordlesses aren't exactly known for their grunt). Then for driving the screw lubricating it first (used to be standard advice but now becoming lost) and again using a more powerful tool (e.g. a brace) to drive it. Those are Robertson screws right? So best choice there. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 6:50 | comment | added | Graphus | "I do not know what kind of wood this pedestal is made of but I am reasonably sure it is a hardwood" If it's American-made it could be birch, or one of the maples. If it's built in Asia your guess is as good as mine! I've had a few things in from China where it looks like they used maple, and I'm presuming they don't import maple from North America, so it's either a Chinese variety (and there are plenty of Acer subspecies) or something that looks very similar. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 6:45 | comment | added | Graphus | Although I can't quite make out how it/they were intended to go in I think screws are the wrong call here. If the glue joint is done properly here as it's a long grain | long grain joint the bond should be the gold standard — stronger than the wood around it. But if you want to further reinforce, probably a good call because this joint was poorly designed from the outset (there's a reason these traditionally use a sliding dovetail), I would add one or more additional dowels. They offer easier installation and better future-proof the repair, so win-win. | |
| May 16, 2021 at 4:26 | history | asked | Woodworking Devil | CC BY-SA 4.0 |