Timeline for Polycrylic getting sticky and peeling/wearing off
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
16 events
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| Oct 11 at 12:03 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Jun 13 at 12:01 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| May 13 at 20:29 | comment | converted from answer | Brent Dennard | I have this problem and it seems to be worst where I lay my arms on it, could be body oil softening the coating... | |
| Aug 2, 2023 at 17:52 | comment | converted from answer | user13589 | For oily woods like maple, apply a good coat of shellac and let it dry for a week. Then apply the polyurathane or polyacrylic over the shellac. The reason: the PU/PA finishes bond with the oils of the wood and form a substance that never dries. The shellac doesn't bond with the wood oils, just forms a dry seal coat over the wood/oil surface. You'll end with a beautiful durable hard coat surface on you butcher block. If you apply PA or PU directly to maple butcher block, you get a permanent sticky mess. | |
| Jul 23, 2021 at 18:01 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Jun 23, 2021 at 17:58 | answer | added | Paul Velte | timeline score: 0 | |
| Jul 11, 2020 at 9:57 | comment | added | Graphus | "let it dry for one or two days, then cover it with a desk mat, it should still dry properly right?" It will very likely stick to the finish underneath. It should be dry enough after 2 days to be considered dry, but dry and cured are very different states. Basically the finish can't be considered as hardened, not sticky/sensitive to cling, until full cure has been achieved, which takes a good two weeks at minimum. | |
| Jul 11, 2020 at 9:54 | comment | added | Graphus | You probably won't be able to do a spot-refinish that you'll be happy with using a product such as this. The edges are nearly impossible to get looking right, even if you feather them by sanding and then carefully apply the new finish. In general when there is finish loss like this you want to strip and refinish from scratch. | |
| Jul 11, 2020 at 7:43 | history | edited | Dobob | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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| Jul 10, 2020 at 20:18 | history | edited | Dobob | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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| Jul 10, 2020 at 19:51 | comment | added | Dobob | @Graphus I guess it could be I didn't let it cure for 21 days like I read on general finishes website. I am going to re-apply after sanding off completely the edge, let it dry for one or two days, then cover it with a desk mat, it should still dry properly right? Although probably slower. | |
| Jul 10, 2020 at 12:23 | comment | added | Graphus | If nobody else provides a good, comprehensive, Answer for you in the next day or so I'll add one that touches on all your points. | |
| Jul 10, 2020 at 12:22 | comment | added | Graphus | 24 hours is really the absolute minimum 'drying' time for a finish like this. Ideally you'd want to wait about a week and maybe two before subjecting it to normal use, especially if consistent use is the norm. "Is this normal that Minwax polycrylic does not tolerate regular human body contact?" Unfortunately the finish type isn't really known for being great in this regard, but additionally Minwax products are often noted for being the worst performers on the market from the 'big names'. As a broad recommendation you'll do better going with something from General Finishes. | |
| Jul 10, 2020 at 1:35 | history | edited | Dobob | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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| Jul 9, 2020 at 21:27 | review | First posts | |||
| Jul 13, 2020 at 16:42 | |||||
| Jul 9, 2020 at 21:26 | history | asked | Dobob | CC BY-SA 4.0 |