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There are a lot of issues to consider in this project. It is not clear how much experience you have nor what tools you have to work with so it is difficult to give specific advice on how to proceed. The shelf layout limits the height of books you can store. You may want to consider varying the height of the shelves such that one shelf handles taller books ...


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Your main issue is the large span for the shelves. Plugging in your dimensions into The Sagulator gives a sag of over 1/4" with pine, a tad under 1/4" with oak and around an inch for particle board or MDF. The easiest way to reduce the sag is to have more support for the shelves. Even a single support in the middle (which reduces the span from 85&...


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The guys above are generally correct. Here is a good youtube video on sliding dovetail joints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_CXk9Du5iw You might find products like this on sites such as covingdirect.co.uk & rackzone.ie


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What you're describing is a medium sized solid wood panel that is likely to be "cupping". This is a phenomenon that happens with solid wood boards/panels so the most practical solution for a beginner would probably be to use a different material - such as plywood or MDF. These engineered materials will be perfectly flat from the factory, and are ...


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You can build a desk out of most any wood if you design it well. A desk is more than just the top. Spend some time thinking about and drawing pictures of your desk to make sure it will fit your need and not be wobbly. Poplar and alder have been used successfully to make desks. Here is an example of a desk made of poplar They both take stain well and can be ...


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In general, using a strong joint such as a half lap, or a mortise and tenon will be about as strong as if it were a single piece of wood. Think gate construction. Gates are different in that they have all the weight on one side, thus they need a diagonal brace to transfer some of the load. If your frame is supported on both sides, and is made with quality,...


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The option of using cabling or cording of some sort is best presented with an image, curiously enough, to scale: The blue lines are cord, passed through holes drilled at the intersections of the frame. One could get away with a single continuous piece, but unless it's secured to the frame, you'll still have undesirable flexibility in the frame. Additional ...


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You perhaps don't need to be as cautious as you might think selecting for each use here because you're not hafting significant striking tools, e.g. full-size axes, mauls, or sledges. Obviously you don't want to make any handles that you're sure are going to fail but while there are clearly better and worse woods it must be acknowledged that when need ...


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