14

One website states that hickory and ash are really the only (US domestic) woods worth using. Obviously just one man's opinion and a gross over-simplification. It's also inherently misleading because it's light on detail. Update: I originally repeated here the (supposedly) sage advice that it is sapwood only that you want in the handles for striking tools, ...


13

I am designing a home theater that will have a small "stage" which will need to have a long (~8ft) piece of wood that is bowed slightly. I want to know what types of wood (e.g. MDF, certain plywoods, ect...) would be suitable for this task as I need to be able to bend the wood to shape. I would say it should be around 6" wide at most. I think ...


13

The boards did have 4 smooth surfaces, all perpendicular to each other, and were straight. That was when they came off the mill, though. Since then, they've been exposed to the elements, shipped to the store, handled, etc and nature has taken its course. Each board is different, which is why they all "acclimate" differently. There are three main solutions ...


12

I do not know what wood is common in Portland. Common woods will differ between locales. If you have lung issues then I would imagine you should't be working unknown woods. If you are fortunate enough to know the wood you are working then I would refer to the Wood-Database as it has an extensive database with details about "Allergies and Toxicities" for ...


12

At least in North America I would consider these to be the more common encountered engineered wood products. Note: While some of the pictures are large this is be design so everyone ( Some people are better at seeing than others ) will be able to see the detail. There might be different regional names for these which I can add later assuming they are correct....


11

I assume you're probably more thinking of what is commonly labeled "SPF," which stands for "Spruce/Pine/Fir." Cheap wood used for dimensional lumber; however, pine is a pretty broad category. This Wood Database article handles it well, dividing into "soft pine," and "hard pine." Soft Pine Is very soft with regular grain; it might be good for a beginning ...


11

Plywood is designed specifically to resist warping and to be stronger than solid wood of the same dimensions due to the properties of lamination. The plywood you want will be labeled as being for "outdoor use," which is treated to be rot resistant. It is easily worked and paintable/sandable. If you want to leave wood exposed rather than painting, then you ...


10

The main concern for outdoor use is usually exposure to moisture and subsequent rot. Woods that are used outside should either have high decay resistance or be well protected from the elements by chemical or physical means. I'll explain: Decay resistance: Cedar, redwood, white oak are a few woods with natural decay resistance that can be exposed to moisture ...


10

Another consideration is the wood's effect on steel. Some woods like oak have acidic tannins in them that stain and promote rust, so oak is rarely used for that reason.


10

The answer depends on which wood species are available to you. With that being said, you can easily calculate it yourself with a formula and the wood database. Theory You can calculate the R value of any specific wood; you need to know the moisture content (MC) and the specific gravity (S). R = 1 / (S * (1.39 + 0.028 * MC) + 0.165) Example Eastern White ...


10

MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard and it's made by essentially combining resins with sawdust and compressing it into a fairly dense, extremely flat and smooth sheet. In general it can be worked like "regular" wood but it's heavier (because of the density) and tends to not hold screws as well as "real" wood. It isn't very pretty and has no ...


9

The big box home improvement centers in my area don't stock nice lumber thicker than 3/4". 2x pine lumber, sure, but nothing you'd want to use to make a kids toy that might go in a mouth. I would recommend hard maple for its properties: Dimensionally stable Clear grain (not likely to produce splinters) Takes paint well Check resistant (holds up to being ...


9

I've had a bit of a search and a few different places seem to suggest that Boxwood is the best wood for engraving, however I'm sure that there are a number of viable choices, and certainly for beginners who aren't trying to achieve very fine detail then any wood which will hold a good edge (so most moderately dense hardwoods) should be fine. Birch plywood ...


9

The confusion comes from nominal vs. actual dimensions of dimensional lumber. Typically a solid wood board sold in customary/imperial units is slightly smaller along its thickness and width, the thickness being the smallest dimension. For example, a "2x4" is actually 1.5in x3.5in and a "1x3" is actually 0.75in x 3.5in. To convert from customary units to ...


9

Can low durability be mitigated with specific finishes? Short answer: yes, absolutely. Think of the long service life of softwoods used outdoors when treated with wood preservatives. Is this finishing schedule enough to mitigate the poor durability of a wood like maple? I'd imagine it will make a significant difference. Epoxy is an extremely effective ...


9

The equipment in your picture may be coated with a couple coats of an oil-based, penetrating stain. Or it may be just bare wood. Cedar and redwood, for example, stand up to weather very well on their own. Much other playground equipment is made from regular pressure-treated lumber. Before the early 2000s pressure treating lumber involved arsenic, but since ...


8

Generally-speaking, you can use whatever type of wood and finish appeal to you. Depending on your application, you may want the door to be either lighter or heavier. If the door is closing off a movie room, you may want a more solid, thicker, heavier door to better absorb and deaden the sound. Of course, if you really want to block sound, you'll probably ...


8

Does SPF, in general, have any redeeming qualities besides just being cheap Weight. Fast-growing woods like soft pine, fir, and spruce have densities between about 20 and 30 lbs/ft3. Hard woods like hard maple and oak are upward of 40 lbs/ft3. The combination of strength and light weight makes spruce the standard choice for certain applications. Sitka ...


8

If you're looking for weather-resistant and lightweight, you can't do much better than cedar for the wood choice. Cedar also has a good strength-to-weight ratio, making it very sturdy. For thickness, using 2x material (i.e., 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.) is probably ok given your letter sizes. Bear in mind that cedar usually has somewhat of a premium in price over ...


8

Dimensional framing lumber is often referred to as SPF which stands for Spruce, Pine and Fir. You will likely also find cedar and pressure treated lumber in the green or brown variants


8

You can just use one 12 inch board. As long as the timber is seasoned properly, and at a suitable moisture level when you use it, it'll likely be fine. That said, there are some benefits to using multiple pieces: If your moisture levels are wrong or the timber has not been seasoned properly it may warp, twist, bow, etc. - using multiple pieces glued up ...


8

Much construction of playground equipment uses pressure-treated softwood (wood from conifer trees). Current treatment of choice is ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary) but there is also CA (copper azole), SBX (sodium borate), and MCQ (micronized copper quaternary). In America the species most commonly treated is southern yellow pine. In other parts of the world ...


7

Actually 2x4's could be perfectly fine for this, depending on what you are actually looking for as an end product. They come in thicker dimensions and are a softer wood. If you are looking to make something more like this Then I'd go with a hard wood. Oak, Maple are both good woods to use. I would look for a species that they have in both regular lumber ...


7

Is there a 'hardness limit' to which woods would be appropriate for this? Within reason I don't believe there is. Many picture frames are made of pine of course so anything like a glazing point or finish nail can be pushed or lightly hammered into the surface without difficulty. But even with oak and beech frames points can usually be pushed in using only ...


7

Pine is easy for me to work with, but might be too soft. What wood would be light enough to be very portable, but strong enough to stand the test of time? Also avoiding the most expensive wood. Though pine is soft, it is still a good choice. In The Anarchist's Tool Chest, Chris Schwarz recommends eastern white pine for the carcase construction of the chest....


7

Does the UK have a piece of wood that is universally commonly used for hobby / domestic projects that it is simple referred to by a common name and is this typically a suitable substitute for the US 2 x 4? If Paul Sellers is any yardstick for how things are done in the UK, you use a 2x4 in the same sense that Americans would. There are plenty of instances ...


7

Exterior grade MDF is available here in Europe, but in US I don't know about cost or availability. It is very durable with finish applied, but cost is high. Exterior grades of plywood should be available everywhere, and much cheaper. Recent question on exterior plywood here Exterior Plywood that looks relatively nice Because of current high prices plywood ...


6

I was going to agree with OSU55 but then I looked and saw Douglas Fir at 660 and people use it as 'hardwood' flooring, granted you put a nice hard finish on it but you don't have to go all the way to epoxy. If it can be a floor, it should be able to be a desk top.


6

If you're looking for a method to secure the contents of the frame and aren't particularly attached to glazier points, you could try something like a turn button. You can pilot the screw holes to secure the turn buttons, so it shouldn't matter as much if you're working with softwoods or hardwoods. (Image Source)


6

Pau Ferro looks like it is similar to Koa, but I think it will be tough to find a wood that looks exactly like Koa. Also, Pau Ferro is from South America, so it is possible that it would be even harder to source than Koa. The below photo is sealed/finished Pau Ferro; its natural color is a lighter matte, but the grain pattern (save for the amazing ...


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