22

A planer is used for making two edges parallel while a jointer is used for making straight or flat surfaces. Let's say you have a warped board (suppose it looks like a banana from end to end). If you pass it through a planer, it will enter as a banana and exit as a banana. A jointer, on the other hand, will shave off bits of the banana, little by little, ...


19

A planer sled is a flat, rigid box or piece of material that supports your workpiece and holds it in a specific orientation as it passes through a thickness planer. By holding a twisted or otherwise warped piece of lumber in a fixed orientation as it passes through the planer, the sled allows the planer to chop off the high spots, effectively jointing the ...


19

It varies by model, check the manual online for the model you're looking at. Generally the shortest recommended length is also the distance between the center of the rollers. Basically, you never want the possibility of a piece of wood being 'stuck' under the cutter head but not being held down by a roller. You can counteract this limitation with some ...


17

A planer will ensure that 2 opposite faces of a piece of wood are parallel to each other will generally handle wider pieces of wood is not the appropriate tool for working the narrow edge of a 'wide' x 'thin' board (think shelving), as you cannot safely feed a tall, skinny piece of wood through it allow you to make an uneven board an even thickness from one ...


17

Technically there's no minimum length you can send through a thickness planer if you 'cheat'. There are various tricks that allow planing of material both too thin and too short and they can work well. For short stock you use outriggers, pieces of scrap wood glued to either side of the board you want to plane. Like this: (Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/...


13

The operation you want to do is called resawing, and is best done on a bandsaw. Ideally, your bandsaw should be equipped with a 1/2" or wider, 2-4 TPI blade and a resaw guide or high fence that can be easily adjusted for blade drift (just in case you haven't yet mastered Alex Snodgrass' drift-free bandsaw setup technique). (Source) The bandsaw will leave ...


12

To add to Rob's answer: A planer mills the wood to a fixed height above the bed. If the piece is warped or twisted, the warp will still be there upon exiting the planer, and at best you'll have a warped piece with constant thickness. (Not even that, if the piece rocks differently each time through the planer.) With the sled or rails holding the wood in a ...


11

Will I have problems running 16' deck boards through a planer and will I get a nice result? Will the pressure treated chemicals, or the years of tree muck adhered to the surface of the boards wreck the planer blades? In terms of chemicals, it depends. ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quartenary) treated lumber has high levels of copper, which can promote corrosion of ...


9

This looks to be the shroud the helps direct woodchips out of the exhaust port. My guess is that it either something got caught on it while you fed it through or something hit it from kickback when you were planing. If you're precise enough with a hammer, you should be able to remove the shroud from the planer and beat it back into straightness. Use a ...


8

Cleaning the deck is the right call here. I wouldn't in general countenance planing PT stock (or doing any other operation to it in bulk, especially sanding). Yes you can protect yourself from the dust at the time you're working it but without being alarmist, every particle of it should be considered a potential toxin. Pressure-washing alone can do an ...


8

You're correct that the planer can remove much more material at a time. With the planer, it is also simple to adjust the depth for removing more material in a pass. With the drum sander, you can change the grit of the paper to take off more material (nowhere near as much as the planer) but that is a more painstaking process. That said, I own a drum sander ...


7

It's called resawing, and generally it is done with a bandsaw. There are blades that can make this process easier. Getting the largest (wide) blade you saw can handle is the best way, at least for wide boards. I've used fairly small boards and cut them in half, 3/4" in half with thinner blades. but you get a lot of wobble, especially if you don't have a ...


7

Mostly no, but you could. I would not because if it is treated lumber you run a risk of removing the protective layer that makes the treated lumber, well... treated. So with that said I would not. But you could take the risk because it might have been penetrated deep enough. The chemicals will more than likely not even hurt the planer but the muck will, so ...


7

Snipe occurs when the leading or trailing edge of the board lifts a bit off the bed of the planer or the planer head, being supported only on one side if the cutters, drops a bit. The result is the last six inches or so of the board being cut more deeply than it/they should be. There are a number of techniques to reduce/eliminate snipe, ranging from feeding ...


7

When purchasing a thickness planer, what are some features that are essential? Some nice-to-haves? Anything that is just fluff, especially for a beginner woodworker? type of cutterhead knives: straight, spiral, or segmented; disposable vs. able to be sharpened segmented cutterhead: spiral/v configuration, helical configuration; typically reduces ...


7

I'll use the US terms jointer for the top part of that machine and planer for the bottom part. Thickness planers typically have a motorized drive, meaning there's no choice about feed direction (unless you're talking about which end of the board to feed first, which is an interesting but different question). Jointing, in which the work is fed by hand, ...


6

Find a local cabinet shop or woodworking store that has a wide belt sander. My local hardwood supplier will run panels through their 50" wide sander for just a few bucks. My planer will handle a 13" wide board. If I need a large panel, I'll do the minimal amount of planing possible on the raw boards, then glue them into sub-panels less than 13". Once ...


6

A couple things that haven't been mentioned yet: feed several pieces in one after another. If I feed piece B before piece A exits, the rollers don't have a chance to drop (and hence, there's no chance for snipe). Similar to #1, you can build a jig to prevent snipe. Take two strips of sacrificial wood that are the same height as your workpiece but longer. ...


6

See past comments re using a sled to stabilize the piece so a planer can be used as a wide jointer. e.g.This one If you don't want to build a sled, another approach is gluing reasonably straight "rails" to each edge of the board (not the ends) to hold it in a consistent position. The tops of the rails will be planed away as you flatten the board, but if ...


6

Rent a floor refinishing belt sander or a large orbital sander (24in disk) and keep the boards in place and sand them down. When you pull up those boards some will have a tendency to warp and twist which will be a nightmare to put back down straight.


6

As wood ages it will dry out and become more rigid. Most portable thicknessers can get the wood down to approx. 1/4". Any thinner and the wood is at risk of tear out which will destroy the plank as it feeds in. Different species will perform better than others. How thin you want to go also depends on how you will be using the wood and how the grain runs ...


5

Bring in some other tools This would seem blasphemy to do to wood of this age but you could consider cutting the boards down their length and laminating them once you make them square. If you are already cutting them square then the natural character that this wood would have would be removed anyway. Table saw and band saw come to mind. They should be ...


5

I work with a lot of pallet wood and frequently many of the boards will be different thickness. I could pass all boards through, lower the height, pass them all through again, lower again, and so on This is exactly what I do. My planer does not have set stops so I cannot 100% accurately come back to the same thickness every time. So that is why I do ...


5

Are there any other options open to me? There is one other option that you didn't mention. You can build a "router sled" to flatten wide boards. This is basically two rails on either side of the board with a narrow platform that slides along them. A router rides on the platform, and the platform has a slot cut through it that the bit projects through to ...


4

I agree that you should have both. However if there were budget and space considerations I would go with a jointer. A jointer is going to enable you to get those precise surfaces for joining your wood. A planer on the other hand is a smoothing/sizing tool and much of what you do with it can be done with a little more elbow grease using hand planers and ...


4

As a rule of thumb, i never plane anything shorter than 12". I have the Dewalt DW734.


4

A planer sled can be use with a planer to effectively joint (make flat) one side of work that's too wide for your jointer. Once you've flattened one side, you can flip the work and run it through the planer with the flat side down (no sled required) to flatten the other side and ensure that it's parallel to the first side. The key to the sled is that it ...


4

but now seeing as both sides might be uneven after gluing, can I pass the board through the jointer on both sides? Instead of jointing both sides, instead pass one side through the jointer to make it flat. This assumes that your piece is narrow enough to fit through your jointer (if not, please see this related Question on using a planer sled). For ...


4

I do some guitar building, and guitars happen to be just wider than standard planers. So, I build a planer sled for my router. Depending on your overall width, this could be useful for you. some pictures of my set up Flat plywood, with 2 square rails. Then I attached my router to a sled of plywood that is reinforced for stability. I was using a 1/2" bit, ...


4

I have actually done this for several decks. The first step after removing the boards is to pressure wash the boards, top and bottom, to remove as much accumulated dirt and debris as possible. Check for any visible metal such as staples, tacks, etc and remove them, it also never hurts to run a strong magnet along both sides to be sure. Stack the boards on ...


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