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6

Frankly, that post looks like it has served its days. I would replace it. However, to try and extend its life, I think the simplest solution would be to drill out the existing holes, glue in dowels and re-drill to accept the screws. Use an exterior grade wood glue (such as Titebond III) or even construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails or PL-Premium). Note ...


3

It sounds as if drilling the holes for the screws as well as making the screws work at all, may be more effort for you than it's worth. You definitely aren't going to make this work by buying a router bit for your drill. You said you thought glue might be strong enough (and many types would be extremely strong) but you're worried about possible future ...


3

Dados would be best, since the mechanical part of the joint will carry most of the load. If you go with butt joints and fasteners, I'd suggest pocket screws instead of either nails or screws into end grain. Pocket screws go into the face of the board instead of the end, so they should hold better. In most cases pocket screws are easier to hide, so you get a ...


3

To answer your question, without actual joinery like dovetails or dadoes, I'd recommend glue-and-screw. That is, some mechanical fastener that actually gives those butt-joints some strength. Because, while PVA glue is incredibly good, it is not at its best with all of the joint being 50% end-grain. Many joints like dove-tails, fingers, dadoes, or rabbets ...


2

How can I fix those profiles to the boards? Use magnets. Use a router or drill with forstner bit to excavate space in the shelves just above your brackets, and then epoxy rare earth magnets into that space. You can add as many as you need to attach the shelf firmly, but you'll still be able to remove the shelves if needed.


1

You could use threaded inserts similar to this if you need the shelves to be held together with screws. The smallest of these would require something like filing them down to 9mm, but I don't think that would affect the functionality of the inserts. The insert that you want for MDF is the one on the extreme left in the picture--the one with the extremely ...


1

Screwing the tray on the bottom flush with the back edge should not be a problem. Moving the tray away from the back edge toward the forward would become problematic depending where the hollow-core begins. Normally the edges are good for an inch or 1-1/2 in. Don't expect to mount it down the middle.


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