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3

I used cloth adhesive tape. It worked well and probably has a better grip and feel than duct tape. You could also get some sports tape, like that used on hockey stick handles or baseball bats.


2

If the wood itself is reasonably sound, just rough, and the damage is deep enough that it will take considerable sanding to eliminate the gouges, I'd consider using a wood filler or epoxy to fill in the depths. Doing so will also help lock in the little bits that are sticking out trying to jab you every time you use it. It's been quite a while since I've ...


2

As I say in the Comment above, it is possible that just sanding deeper would resolve the problem with splinters1. It depends on the level of weathering whether this is viable; you don't want to sand too deeply and change the profile of the handles too much and/or weaken them, plus there's no non-destructive way of knowing in advance if it will work. So the ...


4

It sounds like you keep your wheelbarrow outside, as I do. I recently sanded my wheelbarrow handles and treated them with "spar urethane" to solve the same persistent splinter problem you've described, and I expect it will prevent further oxidation and degradation of the wood during continued outdoor storage. "Spar urethane" or "...


0

That is deep enough for a planer machine, assuming it is not veneer. At one time I did some planning by taking a high school night school class in woodworking. That may give you some ideas regarding where you might get use of a machine . Otherwise that is a lot of material to remove with a big belt sander.


3

ROSs are finish sanders, and not well suited to bulk material removal (except for beasts like the Rotex). But of course you can fit a coarse disk — and I mean really coarse1 — to any ROS to make it very aggressive. But maintaining flatness when removing this much material with a rotary sander is not easy..... I'm actually doubtful a dead-flat surface is ...


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