7

A block of wood Will act as a guide to help hold the work piece tight to the fence/bit to ensure that your cut is consistent. This is good. Will require precise alignment with the fence. If it is slightly out of parallel, you'll end up pinching your work piece. At a minimum, this will stop you from further routing until you get it adjusted. At worst, it ...


5

From the youtube videos I've watched it seems that the 45 degree heavy duty chamfer bit 36-950 from Infinity Tools is the go to bit for this sort of job, however it also appears that this only comes in 1/2 inch shank :-( When the cutter approaches or exceeds the cost of a new router (and perhaps it's worth mentioning that routers litter the secondhand-tool ...


4

it also appears that this only comes in 1/2 inch shank A 45° cutter that's large enough to cut the full 22mm thickness of your work will have to be at least 44mm in diameter, plus the diameter of the shaft, for a total of 51mm or more. You wouldn't want a sharpened chunk of metal that large spinning at 10,000rpm or more on a 1/4" shank. I'm just ...


1

there has to be some reason behind it The fence is often set to expose only a portion of the bit. Removing some of the fence material behind the front face let’s you position the face of the fence closer to the bit without hitting it in such cases.


1

You want it to be big enough to support the pieces you'll be working with, but not so big that it's hard to reach where the bit sticks through. If you have to stretch to reach the bit, you'll be off balance and could hurt yourself. If you have to juggle the piece you're routing, it'll likely slip, possibly damaging the work. I'd suggest taking a look at ...


1

I had the same issue. It was not the worm gears. My plunge was getting into a bind and caused some wear marks on the router which was causing the issue. I used my Dremel and lightly sanded down some of the groves caused from the plunge. Then used white grease to lubricate the router and works great again.


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