9

TL;DR warning. While using 'proper' joints is the way that some shed walls were constructed in the recent past* I think I should say something about why this isn't done as much today — because other ways are faster (much faster) while still producing a structure that's fit for purpose. There's a strong parallel to be drawn with the way that a traditional ...


9

Chisel to create the mortise -- you can save a huge amount of work by drilling out most of the waste. Saw the tenon to slightly over the final size (saw outside the markup lines), then fine tune with plane and chisel (shoulder plane will avoid the need to chisel). There is always a traditional hand-tool solution. It may or may not be more work, and often ...


8

The old way to cut a mortise purely by chisel is the following: You need a mortising chisel which is a chisel of the width of the mortise with the sides narrower than the blade, and a mallet. The chisel is held straight up and driven into the wood near one end of the mortise with the flat of the blade facing the near end. The blade is then walked away from ...


7

You really don't need to over-think this. Let me emphasise that for you, you really don't need to. Even the most modest of tenons provides a very strong joint (assuming it is well cut and glued naturally) and as mentioned in previous Answers many traditional joints are over-engineered for strength. To give two practical examples of why you don't need to ...


7

This doesn't make a lot of sense in my situation, because one third of 60mm is 20mm and 5 times that is 100mm, which is longer then the beam width. I think it's important to remember that these, as in all similar general guidelines about how to size a joint, are just rules of thumb and no rule of thumb needs to be followed slavishly. That's what makes it a ...


6

I would try to keep the geometry of the tenons as simple as possible. The important thing is to maximize the contact surface between the side grain surfaces in the glued joint. Since your making a cabinet base you need not totally conceal the connection (I assume you have a top counter surface over the base). Each tenon is half the height of the beam ...


6

Long mortises and tenons, like the following, are probably best created with a hand router and a table saw. Mortise For the mortise, you will need A jig or brace to ensure a straight path for your router. A straight router bit with a flat blade on the top will provide the necessary cut. However, a spiral-fluted bit will make the cut easier. Obviously, ...


6

Copying my answer from the 'by hand' question. The mortise as the other have mentioned can be done with a hammer and chisel, and drilling consecutive holes to the correct depth will help speed the process up. If you have a drill press that will make the job easier and you can be very accurate on how deep you drill all the holes. If you are using power ...


6

Enlarge the tenon Oh I wish I could leave it at just that one sentence ^_^ But it's not obvious how you'd do that. Usually the error in an undersized tenon is quite small and you'd glue slips of veneer to each side that needs it (often it's the cheeks only that need attention). Here you'll need to use thin slips of wood that you cut yourself. When doing ...


6

The thing with hand tools is that the angles are all arbitrary and require no resetting of stops or fixtures. If you can saw to a line, you can saw 90º and 33.4º equally well. Similarly, if you can chop a conventional 90º mortise, you can do any other angle. Here, you'd chop it out the same way. It's a through mortise, so you mark both sides of the joint ...


5

This design is plenty stout and has lots of extra strength built in to cope with material inconsistency and intermittent stresses put upon it. Those are excellently beefy pegged mortise and tenon joints in good proportion to the project. This method of joinery has been the gold standard for hundreds of years of solid furniture making and if built with even a ...


5

I'm not sure exactly in what way the two sides don't line up exactly. Working in from both faces should ensure the 'mouth' of the mortise on each face is pretty much bang-on, even if the mortise cheeks are a bit ragged or drift off. The ideal fix for a badly mis-cut mortise is actually to scrap the piece and start again. I would guess you won't want to do ...


5

First, as Aloysius says above, you should stay away from the ends of the mortise during bulk removal. 1/16 of an inch or 1-2mm should be sufficient. Now, when you have done a bunch of chopping, and you have chips clogging the mortise, you need to clear them out, as you said. Use a bench chisel that is one "size" below your mortising chisel. For example, ...


5

To make the mortise, you can get a dedicated mortising machine: Image courtesy of Harbor Freight You can also get a mortising attachment for your drill press: Image courtesy of LowesNote: Some people feel that these attachments require too much force be applied to the quill and handle of your drill press. I've used my attachment on a bench-top drill press ...


5

You don't need to repair this. You're using a tusk tenon, so basically everything is going to be held in place by the wedge. With a different style of M&T joint, secured with glue, one could theorise that the reduced glue surface area might be an issue but it's of no relevance here. But even if this were a glued joint I still think it's nothing to ...


5

If the hollow back doesn't need to be perfect, use a Forstner bit and cut overlapping holes in it to get the desired depth. You could also treat it like a big bandsaw box, and cut all of the sides off, and glue them back together. The glue line on a clean cut with the grain is hardly noticeable. You could also just build a new mantle as a hollow box and ...


4

When traditional joinery techniques were employed on buildings, it was in the form of timber framing, not stick framing. Timber framing employs fewer, larger pieces of wood, which means that the joints can be heftier (especially important for softwood), and there are fewer of them to cut (saving your time). If you are committed to using traditional methods ...


4

No option, you're going to have to dig into the wood a bit. You need to be able to get a grip on the nail heads to begin to pull them out and if they're sunk below the surface you can only do this by removing some wood. With a bit of luck though you may only need to drill two small holes on either side of each nail, just enough to allow the tips of pliers ...


4

Another alternative is to make and use a horizontal mortising machine. It's much easier than you might think. I use mine to make loose tenon mortise and tenon joints. It's a joy to use. There were 18 mortise and tenon joints per chair in my dining room table set project. That's 108 joints. That's far too many conventional mortise and tenon joints to be ...


4

Don't lever. Pare straight downward into the opening, taking it in multiple passes if necessary, and letting the chisel act as a wedge to do the work.


4

All things equal I would leave the gap it is usually easer than cutting out the mortise even with a mortising machine, you may have to adjust the tenon to fit.


3

I'd look to the typical hand-tool workflow for cutting tenons and adapt it to the router. Working with hand tools it's generally assumed that one face will be your reference for all your layout. That way if the piece is slightly off in thickness or slightly out of square you'll still get a good joint. So I'd start by laying out all of your tenons with a ...


3

There is no magic ratio to grab and be done with. I'm not aware of a set of 'rules of thumb' that apply universally. It depends on wood selection and maintaining the joints when they start to loosen and on the abuse the table will suffer, at the hands of users less inclined to be gentle (six-year-old boys come to mind). The strength of the wood in 'area z' ...


3

Paul Sellers is a master craftsman, author of several books and some very good video tutorials. He does several on cutting mortises - this one probably being most relevant to this topic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBkO2chZxk I've learned a lot from watching his videos, still dont have the skill to implement the lessons very well as yet - very much a ...


3

Given what you are designed you might be over thinking this. Each of those tenon designs would suffice. The last two would end you with a nice outward appearance. If aesthetics is important to you then I would consider the latter two. The last one you have with lapped tenons would be the most difficult to cut but still feasible. Why I don't think this ...


3

Yes, you can absolutely do this. I did it in one project as you can see in the second picture of this project. It basically does what you said - increases fracture toughness of the small stub of a tusk tenon by: increasing glued surface area, and adding some cross-grain strength to a short section.


3

What are the usual steps to carve out a non-90degree mortise that will be married to a sliding wedge/key? Just to clarify the need here, this isn't an angled mortise you're looking for here, it's merely a mortise with one angled surface. Should the wedge be cut first? Having the ability to set a given angle and then repeatably mark it is why bevel ...


2

I believe that using the technique you have in the image will result in a weaker structure than using standard fasteners. The wood between the mortises on the horizontal beam is unsupported. Even if you glue the joint, you will have an end grain to edge grain joint, which is relatively weak. While it would work for a small structure, it would not pass any ...


2

What you show can certainly be accomplished, although it is a bit more challenging than simply nailing studs together. To accomplish your design you will need a saw, drill, chisels and wood glue. The tenons on the vertical studs are simply cut with a saw. Mark the depth of the tenon around the four sides of the tenon first and cut them to the depth of the ...


2

Assuming that the failure to line up is due to small compounded errors, there are a series of small posture and behavioral changes you can make to help make your work more accurate, and you can make guides to help you control the tools. But, given that your mortise holes don't line up, you can probably fix them by analyzing which wall is out of square, and ...


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