4

The only way to do what you are describing it to build it in place. Cabinet makers generally do no make the sides floor to ceiling for this reason and a few others. You generally do would want a recessed toe kick for something like this rather than just a bottom shelf resting on the floor, which both looks bad, and functionally doesn't allow much of an ...


3

I would recommend constructing the center and right pieces as freestanding cabinets. that are built in your shop space and moved to position completed. That way they will have internal structural integrity adequate to support clothing and accessories. (Make sure they can be moved up stairs and along corridor turns before you build them). The hanging area ...


2

There is no way I would use 37mm teak for the unseen back panel of piece of furniture. Personally, I would use plywood or hardboard; certainly 6mm solid wood would be fine (and for the kitchen cupboards in particular, I would consider using a cheaper wood than teak). Your carpenters seem to be grossly over-building the furniture. I wouldn't use more than ...


2

You are seeking what is called a flush two-pin hinge: https://www.amazon.com/Whitecap-Flush-Mount-2-Pin-Hinge/dp/B004MDY00W The image shows one of many options and of many designs. Some are engineered to mount on a surface, but even that isn't a requirement. Some "ordinary" hinges will have flush pin configuration without having two pins. The design in ...


2

For shelves, can we use planks of width 1 feet or we need to join planks of 6 inch? There's no easy answer to that, because as with most things wood-related the wood itself if the key factor. This is each piece, not the wood species in general. With the way that most wood is cut even subsequent boards from the same stack, sawn from the same tree in ...


2

To maintain current size there are few options. The existing system we must guess was good enough when the table was new. Perhaps screws got loose and were not tightened? And the pocket screws appear to be short! Because the legs are so thick these screws could be double previous length I think. Deepen pilot holes if you add longer screws. Unless corner ...


1

Corner braces like these are a very common way to attach legs. They're attractive for commercial furniture because they create a strong joint that's easy to assemble and disassemble, so you can ship the table with the legs removed. You can buy commercially-made metal ones like the ones in the picture, or make your own with pieces of wood glued and screwed at ...


1

The idea of using multiple planks is that you would make sure the grain runs in opposite directions on each plank that you join to minimize any kind of cupping which can happen with wider pieces. However, it also depends on how the planks were cut; whether they are flat sawn or quarter sawn: With flat sawn boards, the cut means the board will have a ...


1

If you have wide stock you can use that, or you can join up multiple narrower boards. a straight edge joint is perfect for this, provided the edges joined are straight and square (ie, no gaps) - regular wood glue is strong enough to hold this together.


1

With sides at least 1.5 inches thick, a major-league tongue and groove joint (or a sliding dovetail if you are feeling fancy) would allow you to assemble the sides in place without having to tip them up into place. Edit, add: If you wanted to minimize the visual effect on the live edge, use a stopped groove/loose tenon/groove joint and cut it apart with a ...


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