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8

I can't tell from this picture exactly but it is worth pointing out that this frame might not all be made of wood and wood elements (not that you were suggesting this). The items you see in section B and C could very well be made from clay/plastic molds and then glued into place. It is possible that one of these pieces of flair to be carved by hand, to ...


7

B: I would like to know how elements like what is highlighted in B could be made. I'm sure this could be hand carved but I don't think this was hand-carved. As you mentioned, this could have been hand-made but it was probably mass-produced. Decorative elements such as the one you labeled B are commonly called appliques or onlays. They can be wood, but are ...


7

Is there a 'hardness limit' to which woods would be appropriate for this? Within reason I don't believe there is. Many picture frames are made of pine of course so anything like a glazing point or finish nail can be pushed or lightly hammered into the surface without difficulty. But even with oak and beech frames points can usually be pushed in using only ...


6

If you're looking for a method to secure the contents of the frame and aren't particularly attached to glazier points, you could try something like a turn button. You can pilot the screw holes to secure the turn buttons, so it shouldn't matter as much if you're working with softwoods or hardwoods. (Image Source)


6

I do not have a table saw and for some unknown reason I am scared of them. Some fear is entirely appropriate, table saws are potentially very dangerous tools. The table saw regularly tops lists of the most dangerous power tool and it may account for the largest number of serious injuries in a woodworking shop. Anyway, you don't need a table saw for doing ...


5

Rockler has a V-Nail Installation Tool that should be right up your alley: I'm sure there are other stores where you can get these, but this is the first one I found.


4

Can a picture frame be made from wood molding from a DIY/Big Box store? Short answer: yes. You can of course make picture frames from just plain flat boards, even 2x material, so mouldings are certainly a workable starting point for a more elaborate surface profile than flat wood. I want to make a picture frame while avoiding the routing involved to ...


3

To really understand the inner workings of this frame and all ornate style mouldings, is to start at the beginning; I too was in search of how this is done for the same reason, I desire to build my own frame styles. 1st step; learn about "Running Moulds" it is a concept of how plaster is used to create "Frame Like Designs" on Walls. 2nd step; Look at the ...


3

Single strength (3/32) is the standard for picture frames, but I'd start thinking Double strength (1/8) at 16x20 or larger. 1/8 is the standard for cabinet doors, so it will be more than adequate for a picture frame.


2

You can certainly do this if you wanted, and actually it wouldn't be a bad way of reinforcing some large or heavyweight frames — Strong joints to use when making custom frames :-) But you wouldn't want to do it on every frame, as I mention in the same sentence in the previous Answer you can do the same using just a triangle or chevron of plywood (or ...


2

I'm in the UK / Germany, so it might be different where you are. However all the big DIY stores I have seen, have mouldings designed for picture frames in their stock. As a single example: https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Bilderrahmenleiste-kiefer-roh-22x46x2000-mm/5491105/artikel.html (I'm assuming you can't read the text, but the pictures should work). And ...


2

Not enough rep on this site to comment, but I would agree with @Graphus - there's definitely some advantage from a stability-standpoint to having the panels battened down with some construction adhesive. I would also suggest that to minimize any twist in the floating(ish?) framing, that you block off between the studs, creating a big "torsion box". Best of ...


1

If you don't have access to a proper framing underpinner (friend's or neighbour's), then you could either ask a local picture framer to join them for you or if you do want to do it yourself, a pocket-hole jig might be suitable as this will join the corners from the inside where it won't show. Always back up the join with a good wood glue too. If you do go ...


1

You've got hydraulic jacks - even cheap ones will lift 2", so lift height isn't critical, so don't try to put your 4x4 vertically - that could be wobbly as it moves during the lift, and it concentrates all the lift force at one point on your structure. Lay 2 4x4s down sideways so that they cross all the 2x12s near each end. Leave clearance for the ...


1

I assume that your deck had gaps between the deck boards for drainage, in which case you would clearly see deterioration in the framing lumber if it wasn't treated. Examine the deck framing for any deteriorated boards, or corroded hangers for replacement before placing the new deck surface. Don't worry about it getting wet, even untreated lumber in house ...


1

It's more work and may not be the solution you are looking for, but you can achieve a much stronger corner with equally appealing aesthetics by using a mitred half lap, such as:


1

Considering that it appears that a Douglas Fir 2" x 12" can span a 17' section being braced on both ends and 24" apart, you shouldn't have any problem with 1/4 of that hanging unsupported. However, making a brace that supports part of the overhang with a 6"x 6" at 45 degrees could significantly improve the support. so the cross beam might reach 2' out ...


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