5

I see many solid wood floors that are nailed everywhere, with no gaps, and seem to have no problems. How is this possible? Solid wood floors do experience seasonal movement, but you may not notice it because many floors are made up of boards that are only 2 1/4" to 3" wide, so any shrinkage between summer and winter is distributed over many joints....


4

Veneers are very common on premade stair treads, but the question is could you apply a veneer on installed treads yourself and get similar results? It sounds like you have installed the treads and risers already. Veneers will wear like any wood, but the difference in factory treads is that they have applied the veneer with the right heat, humidity, and ...


4

Trim it out with a frame. It will be nearly impossible to satisfactorily match the grain and edges of the flooring. And you need the length for enough strength to hold onto the existing flooring and support the heavier register. Any decent hardwood will do, matching or contrasting with the floor. The real challenge will be how you handle the short sides, ...


3

As Graphus pointed out in the comments to your question. Many of your requirements are mutually exclusive. Any oil finish only give some protection from moisture, at least as far as flooring goes, and they definitely all make the wood darker (change color) some times by quite a bit, depending on the oil and the number of coats, oil will need to be reapplied ...


2

If you think 'covering' the stairs is the best way to 'fix' the problem, I would go with a thicker laminate. something like 1/8-1/4" (3-6mm) This would be thick enough to handle a lot of wear, and would be much easier to attach to the current stairs. And still thin enough not to affect stair height much. You could use glue and/or small finishing ...


2

My advice would be to eschew contact with the floor at all, except maybe with a frame covered in thin cork or felt (or silicone pads, if you want them to stick a bit instead of slide). This bottom part of the frame rests on the floor, and you hang the frame with suitable fasteners to suitable structural members in the ceiling. Ceilings are much easier to ...


2

Here are a few ideas that might be helpful regarding your proposed solution from my experience with OSB/wood floors: OSB vs plywood I made good experiences using OSB instead of plywood as it is made from stronger wood and will be more durable. For flooring and subflooring I usually use the type of OSB that comes with tongue and groove. There is no need to ...


1

This is "sticker stain". Sticker stain is fairly common and often unavoidable, although the nature and severity of it varies naturally. Is there any treatment or method to remove or reduce the discoloration circled below? Soon as you joint/plane or heavily sand the surface (which of course is the norm for wood rough from the mill whether it has ...


1

Is there any treatment or method to remove or reduce the discoloration circled below? Or do I just have to live with it as “part of the charm”? Although those sticker marks were all caused in the same way (contact with stickers), they're not necessarily all caused by the same process. Contact with stickers protects the wood from light and perhaps air to ...


1

+1 to the comments and the suggestion to use nails. If you would like to avoid nails and screws at all costs you could create an entire frame from 2x4's that would fit tight underneath you ceiling. You could attach your frame to the wall(s) and ceiling and install the glass panes inside your frame. I am not sure if this is feasible for your particular use ...


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