New answers tagged finishing
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There are thinners for latex paints, you could totally do it with the latex paint, but there also white tint dye base, for ex. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Classic-White-Tint-Base-Water-Based-Interior-Wood-Stain-339584/305626822 - one coat will let the grain show through
It's really bout what exactly a client wants. Historically whitewash was ...
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I've been using Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat for years straight out of the can. I wipe it on, sand lightly with fine sandpaper and then wipe on multiple coats of Minwax Wipe-on Poly, again straight from the can. Works well on Baltic birch plywood as well as preventing/reducing blotching on cherry and pear. Since the shellac dries so quickly I often put a ...
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When I put the piece back in the hole I cut, what do I use to re-attach it so it stays stable? (so it won't fall back or forward out of the hole.)
Glue tabs on to the back side of the hole, then glue the cutout to them once the glue used has had a chance to cure. You can probably just use superglue/CA to attach these tabs as they don't have to take much ...
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Billions of chemicals are stored correctly and safely indoors all over the planet.
If it does not freeze or get very hot in your area and you can safely lock it up to prevent children or pests from access them then go for it. Temperature is a consideration for some chemicals.
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For the bottom, you may want to look into a spar varnish or even a spar urethane if that is an option (some people just don't like urethane for whatever reason). These types of finishes were originally used in the marine finishing world. Really anything designed for marine use would work, but epoxies and the like can get pricey.
I like Minwax's Helmsman ...
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