That is called a Tnut.
It is similar to a threaded insert but it is pressed into the wood and has little points that grab the wood and keeps it from rotating when you thread a bolt into it.
A threaded insert as threads on the outside and is threaded into the wood like a screw.
GRK makes lots of screw sizes, and there are lots of stainless screws, many of which are less strong than similarly sized GRK.
My guess is that the strength of the fastener is never going to even be an issue. There are thousands of kitchen cabinets held up by the cheapest screws imaginable. Typically with a built-in, the cabinet itself is supporting all ...
Are GRKs perfectly adequate for this or is my impulse to use SS wood screws better?
It's your house, and the carpenters work for you, so if you want them to do something a particular way you shouldn't hesitate to ask for that. Just be aware that if your preferred method takes more time, it may cost you more.
Assuming the carpenters have done this sort of ...
Thanks to everyone who replied! In the end, @Graphus was right. It turns out that sometimes all you need is some WD-40 and good old brute force. The fastener came loose after a bit of convincing with a hammer, and thankfully the wood was not split or damaged further. Success!
In the absence of clarification from the OP I'll Answer this with a given set of assumptions.
The basic answer here is pocket-hole screws, and by a pretty large margin.
It's not simply that the screws themselves are so much more secure than a steel rod of some kind intersecting with a cam1, it's that pocket-hole screws tend not to be used in isolation. The ...
A few search's led me the term "plastic stacking corners" OR "box stacking corners".
Here is one example.
There are several kinds of those but i was not able to find metal ones.
I did find a metal corner that is not what you have referenced but could work.
It seems you could also use a piece of angle aluminum fastened around the the ...