I think I may have screwed up the order of operations a bit
But because you're using an oil finish it's not quite as bad as it seems.
Inside the cracks and other defects the epoxy won't stick as well as it would to bare wood, however once cured drying oils aren't oils any longer so the bond won't be as terrible as one might expect. Long wait for the ...
I've just checked the website for this epoxy. The pot life is not the same as the curing time.
Potlife: 30 minutes at 23 ° C
Curing time: Initial curing 10-12 hours at 23°C. Full cure after 7 days.
So there is nothing wrong here!
Since it doesn't relate to the other things we're discussing in the Comments we can go ahead and Answer the main query you posted here.
In which order should I glue, stain and apply epoxy resin?
The normal construction order would be:
assemble — glue together in this case
do any filling that's needed — epoxy in this case
and then stain if you're ...
Basically, I want to avoid situations I've encountered in the past where the dyed epoxy seeps into the wood surrounding the void and creates a stain or blotch that is difficult to impossible to sand out. I've experienced this with boards that exhibit spongy or lightly-rotted areas around the void I'm filling.
The part I've bolded is the main issue here, ...
You need to consider what effect you're chasing. Epoxy as a filler always looks 'foreign' because it has a different surface finish, and because it neither takes stains nor ages the same way as the surrounding timber.
So it will always show.
If you can't hide it, flaunt it.
Which is to say, use a contrasting colour(color)
If you're wanting to make an ...
Because epoxy is a high build film finish, you want the surface to be flat and level before you put something else on it.
So that means either sanding the surface flat or pouring another layer of epoxy to cover the missed spots and the rest of the surface.
Epoxy will achieve a high sheen if you sand to high grits, likely wet sanding as you get into the ...