15

For cuts with a router, slow also can mean burnt material. If I have a complex profile to cut, I either break it into multiple passes with multiple bits, or I sneak up on it, going slightly deeper each pass. Some folks also make a deep pass at close to the final depth, then make another shallow, fast pass at final depth to finish up the cut. e.g.


14

Always make sure your bits are sharp and take small bites with the router. If the router bit travels too slowly, it can burn and/or burnish your workpiece. Heat from taking too large a bite or moving slowly can also destroy the temper on the router bit, causing it to dull faster and/or break. Carbide bits are more resistant to heat than high-speed steel ...


10

Yes, they are stronger Splines increase the surface area being glued,; and thus the strength of the joint. And since miter is close to being end-grain to end-grain, it can definitely benefit from reinforcement. Not necessary in things which aren't under much stress, like small boxes and picture frames, but as you say splines can also be a decorative ...


7

I've tried both with a router. Cutting a 3/8th in deep groove though a board is a lot more work and it is a lot easier to mess it up. I burned a lot more wood. You also have to push harder which means it is easier to wobble the router as you move it along. I generally go for 1/8" passes, for 1/2" or bigger bits. It doesn't really take long to make the ...


7

I purchased some furniture that has wooden elements to it that ended up being unfinished. Should I be concerned about this? No. It's extremely common for certain parts of furniture, even fine furniture, to have no finish on them. Drawer boxes, the inside surfaces of cabinets and chests of drawers, the backs of pieces intended to go against a wall, seat ...


7

Perhaps the most common solution is to build hardwood face frames for your cabinets. The face frame conceals and protects the edge of the plywood. If your cabinets are already built, a film finish will help protect against damage, but may not hold up to seasonal movement over time along the mitered joints. Personally I wouldn't bother with the clear ...


6

I always "knew" the answer, but I didn't know why. So I emailed the question to router expert Pat Warner. His web site contains a wealth of information on safe, efficient use of a router. His response was that in addition to creating burns and chatter in the cut, the deeper cut causes the motor to draw more amps, possibly even to the point of burning out ...


5

More, shallow hits is generally a better philosophy. The other answers have made good points but something they haven't touched on is "chatter". If you use a single, deep pass (even with a slow "feed rate", that is the rate of travel of your router), due partially because of chip clearance problems and partially just because the bit will have a longer part ...


5

One problem with a deep cut is the wood chips needs to be removed from the cut area, or it will be recut and the dust will add friction and heat. If you want to do a deep cut you can use a constant stream of compressed air to clear the wood chips and cool the cutter at the same time, which allows you to not burn the wood and also cut faster.


5

By beveled, do you actually mean mitered? You could use a little cleat of hardwood, which is something you can even do after you've already assembled the cabinets. (with plywood, biscuits are possibly not necessary, although personally, I'd probably use anyway). Here's a picture of what I'm suggesting: (picture from 12 ways to build cabinets faster and ...


5

Bamboo in general Bamboo, like any woody material, does respond to changes in humidity and its dimensions do change as a result. This expansion and contraction, like with wood, takes place primary across the grain. "Engineered bamboo" This could be one of a number of things. If the bamboo product is just a simple glue-up (like a "butcher block" ...


5

I'm not sure this qualifies as an answer, but we might be talking about two different things here. Mills used to float logs in their millponds to minimize splitting and checking while they were being queued up for sawing. The idea is that it suspends the drying process, and logs can be sawn green even if those logs had to wait for weeks or months after ...


5

Putting a glass top over it would be simplest. There are epoxies made for bar tops which might work, but I have no idea what they would do over a soft wood. There are compounds used to harden partially rotted wood, but I would be even more distrustful of trying to force them into a use they weren't designed for.


4

Plywood seems like a good solution here until you look at the material in detail. With modern plywood in particular, in addition to generally not being as well-made as plywood used to be (more voids, junkier wood in the core layers) over the years the surface ply has gotten incrementally thinner, to the point where on some plywood it's now like a sheet of ...


3

Just make the verticals out of run of the mill fir construction lumber, 2x2s or 2x4s, or 4x4s, (or whatever if metric, sorry!) and buy some thick dowels, maybe 2", for the horizontals, whatever's in the hardware store dowel rack (or order online). A 2x6 for that back piece on the wall. I wouldn't over think it. You'll be able to hold an elephant up with it ...


3

Another solution is to design real-wood edging into the piece, to cover the plywood edge. This can range from veneer tape (edgebanding) to a piece of hardwood chosen to match the color and thickness of the ply and glued tightly to it -- or may be thicker, shelf edging often extend below the shelf both to stiffen the shelf and to make it look more ...


3

One way that I have used for this is to just use overlap corner joints for the plywood. This type of joint covers one raw edge of the plywood. On the other piece that is left with the raw edge showing I've glued on a thin strip of solid wood of the same type as the nice face of the plywood. The thickness that works nicely for this is 1/8 inch. There are ...


3

Not certain which joint you're referring to: But regardless of whether you mean a true splined mitre or a keyed mitre the reinforcement does add to the joint strength. Both increase joint strength due to three factors: structural advantage, the thickness of the wood slivers used and the glue surface area. When considering splines or keys of conventional ...


3

A sheet of hardboard is another traditional solution, though it may wear as quickly as the plastic does. You could try applying flooring to a sheet of plywood to create a portable floor, akin to the dance-floor modules some hotels drop over their carpet when an event needs that. You could ask a hotel where they buy those modules and see if you can place a ...


1

I would recommend making the structural parts of the construction out of oak because it is strong and durable and holds fittings well. The round bars I would make from ash. Ash is a straight, flexible and resilient wood. Things like hammer handles and poles are made from ash.


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