44

Ashler's answer is the simplest and cheapest way to get holes the same depth. But as an extra there are bit collars that can be put on the bits which will enforce exact depth stops.


39

A lot of people drill a hole through a suitable length of wood dowel (or small square cross section) and use that as a stop-collar on the drill. Example You can also just use an external chunk of wood Example One benefit of both these is you don't need an Allen key and can very quickly swap back and forth between two or more different depths (useful for ...


31

Under what circumstances would I choose which bit? and why? Different bits excel at distinct tasks: Forstner/Saw-tooth Bits (source: Lee Valley) These bits are excellent if you need a relatively shallow hole with a flat bottom and crisp, clean sides. The center spur keeps the bit on track to your chosen centerline without walking into porous grain. ...


27

This is an extremely common phenomenon and there's nothing you can do to prevent it entirely. You seem to be well aware of the standard bit of advice going back to the days of slotted screws, that it is vital to press hard to fully engage the driver with the screw. But unfortunately with power driving and Phillips-head screws it is virtually inevitable ...


27

The simplest means is to place a tab of masking tape on the drill bit at the desired depth. When the spinning tab lowers to the surface of the wood and sweeps away the wood chips, stop.


24

It does matter - wood drill bits won't work on metal (destroying the bit in the process, unless used on thin and soft metals) and metal drill bits will increase splintering and tear-out when used on wood (but this depends also on the wood type and the diameter of the bit, and for smaller diameters there is little difference between wood and metal drills bits)...


22

You can also adjust your drill press table to be at the desired depth when the drill reaches the end of it's stroke.


18

Tape is what I would have suggested and continue to use but if you wanted something a little more robust my suggestion would be depth stop collars /nuts Image from AliExpress Easily removed off the bits and adjustable as well which tape would not be as much.


18

Lee Valley (I'm sure you can get it elsewhere) sells a product called an Oops Arbor that allows you to mount two hole saws to a single arbor. The smaller one is held further out from the larger one allowing it to support itself as it drills.


11

Unfortunately, the angled tip on Philips bits causes them to climb and slip, and round over their edges and/or strip the head of the screw. Often if you buy a pack of screwdriver bits for your drill, it will come with lots of #2 Philips bits because everyone knows that perhaps the most ubiquitous head and size, and at the same time it is very prone to ...


11

Yes, there are hollow screw extractors like you describe, such as these two examples: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26 Unfortunately, they may be difficult to get started if you're unable to fit the part into a drill press and you aren't able to make a pilot ...


10

Excellent answer already from grfrazee but I wanted to add a few details. Although there is some overlap in sizes with this kit (and many others) often the bits don't overlap in function, so the size overlap is quite deliberate. They only duplicate function if you think of drilling one 1/2" hole as the same as drilling every 1/2" hole. For example, if you ...


9

Yes, small drill bits can break easily. Some manufacturers offer multi-packs of a single size drill bit. Multi-packs are also available for 1/4" hex shank bits. Some high-end drill bits are more durable. Recently at The Woodworking Shows I also saw a demonstration by a drill bit vendor drilling through files and brake rotors. First he drilled through with ...


9

Another thing that might help: although the brand of goldscrews that I use are described as being waxed/lubricated, for demanding jobs, or to max out cordless runtime, I use a smear of petroleum jelly or wax which eases insertion. I keep an old candle stub for this purpose. I feel that p. jelly is a better lubricant but a bit less convenient. It also gives ...


8

The most basic step is making a jig. Clamp the jig to your drill press table and you can just put in the blank press it up against the stops and drill down and put the piece on the result pile. You can also center-punch the holes before drilling. This will help align the drill bit to where the hole should go. Put some wood screws through a piece of scrap ...


8

bench grinder is what I thought was the standard sharpening tool. A bench grinder is considered a coarse tool when it comes to sharpening fine woodworking implements. The only time you should need to use a bench grinder on a chisel is to re-establish a chisel edge that has been badly mangled or chipped from misuse. A factory-ground chisel should not need ...


8

I don't think you can sharpen a Forstner bit accurately enough with abrasive paper. Even if you glue it to a small slips of wood to make rudimentary files from it these won't be particularly stiff so may not give you the accuracy you'd want to properly sharpen a bit, where as much as possible you want to maintain the existing geometry of the factory grind. ...


7

Is it the design of the bit? Yes I believe that's partly it. But it's almost certainly not the only issue and the main one I think is that it's not sharp enough — this type of countersink rarely is from what I've seen. I have three of what looks like exactly the same countersink and every one of them was not sharp straight from the package, and I have ...


7

The problems with forstner bits is that they only have a portion of the bit (half an inch or so) that is as wide as the hole you are cutting. Whereas with an auger the entire length of the auger is as wide as the hole. This helps keep the hole straight. Forstner bits usually have short shafts (though there are shaft extenders). Augers on the other hand are ...


7

Sounds to me like you are describing a use for screw extractors (source: asklaptopfreak.com) Your drill needs to have the torque in order to get them in what's left of the head or shaft. They are drilled forward the reverse direction (lefty loosy) so that when the bit gets enough catch on the screw it gets pulled out. It can be harder to use these when ...


7

Are you set on manufacturing these yourself? Because really, "best and most efficient" is to get a company with either large industrial machines or low cost labour to manufacturer this part for you. If you're limited to a standard drill (hand drill, drill press, etc.) then you're going to get the most efficiency by stacking the parts so that you can drill ...


7

Hammer drills are designed for working with masonry. Since you're driving the screws into lumber, you really don't need the hammer action for this job. Switch to a standard drill (or, if your hammer drill allows you to disengage the hammer action, do that) and lower the clutch setting to the lowest value that will get the screw head down to the wood surface. ...


6

Rob has presented the high end solution, I will present the cheap hack end of the spectrum. For drilling pilot holes, you can use a brad or nail with the head snipped off. This works remarkably well, is cost-effective and easy to do. Depending on the the brad in question, you many not need to snip the head, in which case you can use the brad after a few ...


6

The key to efficiency will not be how many parts you can stack, but rather, how quickly you can set up the next part for drilling. Set up a fixture with appropriate stops so it only takes a second to pull out the current part and drop the next one in and have it perfectly aligned. Group your parts into manageable batches (as Jasper suggested in a comment). ...


6

One of the greatest advantages of an auger bit is in its name--it works like an auger, carrying away the chips and shavings that it produces. Auger bits are also available in very long sizes and are very rigid (i.e., they won't flex as easily as spade bits). They work best in low-speed, high-torque tools, including both power drills and hand braces. ...


6

Posidriv is a big improvement on Philips. No experience of the others. In the UK I think Posidriv is the most common for construction, with Torx etc for specialist applications. I use Wera Diamond bi-torsion bits - last longer than others I've tried. (Their blurb: "Bi-Torsion screwdriver bit , BDC series diamond coated. Colour banded for identification. The ...


6

It all depends. I use my bench grinder to sharpen some of my wood-turning chisels and I use a stone for others. One thing to be aware of with a bench grinder is for flat chisels it will leave a concave 'hole' in the face, since you are using a round object, the bigger the wheel the smaller the concavity. Large sharpening stones on farms were big enough ...


6

It's perfectly fine and common practice to use a countersink bit that is bigger than the taper you make with it, regulating the taper diameter by how deep you go. A vertical wall above the taper is known as a counterbore (as it is also known when there's no taper). A combined countersink/counterbore that leaves a flat-head fastener exactly flush with the ...


6

TL;DR Return or sell the 2x4, "drill bit" / "dowel blade" and/or skip lunch and use the money to buy a pack of 1000 ready-made dowels online. Is there a way to extend the length of a dowel blade? I am not familiar with "dowel blades". There are blades for dowel-cutting saws which are the same as flush-cutting saws. These are for cutting through the ...


6

Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight ...


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