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Generally-speaking, you can use whatever type of wood and finish appeal to you.
Depending on your application, you may want the door to be either lighter or heavier. If the door is closing off a movie room, you may want a more solid, thicker, heavier door to better absorb and deaden the sound. Of course, if you really want to block sound, you'll probably ...
7
Generally how I do it is after ripping the wood, line them all back up. then flip every other board over the long way. If the board wants to cup, flipping every other board reduces how much it can cup, because each one will want to 'bend' in the opposite direction.
By flipping them the long way it also helps with bows and twisting.
6
The doors should have no problem clearing each other assuming the hinge pivot is in line with the seam between doors and the stationary part of the cabinet as viewed from the top. The edges of the door you are concerned about will scribe a circular arc, as they swing outward, with the maximum approach to each other only when closed.
5
The traditional way to do this, is to have the central diamond be on piece of wood, and the raised portions around the edge be a separate frame. The frame is held together with mortise and tenon joints, and has a groove into which the central panel fits. The central panel is not glued in place, to allow for expansion.
Normally, the central panel is a ...
5
The diamond piece could be cut with a router planing jig - basically, a pair of rails that sit on your work table, along with a sled that your router is mounted to. The sled rides on the rails, which allows the cutter to move along a 2-D plane a fixed height above the work table. It's almost like an upside-down router table, in the sense that your workpiece ...
5
There are generally speaking two ways people go about this kind of work these days, using a router or jigsaw.
Router
With the router you'd use a suitable straight-cutting bit with a bearing guide in conjunction with a template made from thinner material, running the bearing carefully around the inside perimeter of the template while being careful to avoid ...
answered Sep 18 '15 at 11:12
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5
My plan was to build a box, then cut it open, but that might not work.
That is the usual way of building a lid for a box. You build a hollow cube with no lid, then cut the lid off. This guarantees the lid will match up with the box.
Minimizing the kerf is going to depend on the tools you have at your disposal. I've cut box tops off with a table saw, which ...
4
To lead from a comment you made on another answer
In a hospital I used to work in, the fire doors were made out of wood and were rated at 1.5 or 2 hours of protection as a function of their thickness.
I think I get it now. The doors you speak of do not stop fire dead. It's not about fire protection but more about giving time for people to be able to ...
4
If you're looking for structural integrity, not pretty, simply nail a 2x4 to the wall against the flat trim. Several 16d nails should be sufficient to hold your weight.
If you need something to look nicer, you might get a 1x? (width to match the existing trim) and replace the existing trim, then stain to match. Use finishing nails to hold it up, but since ...
4
One option if you don't mind a little math, careful blade height adjustments, and using a hand plane:
Calculate the depth at a series of distances from the center of the pyramid, say every quarter inch. Set a table saw blade height (carefully) to that depth and cut concentric squares around the pyramid at each corresponding depth. Make sure the inside of ...
3
The exact amount you need can be calculated using the pythagorean theorem. See the modified diagram below, with a triangle overlayed on it:
You already labeled the 16mm dimension. You then need to measure X (the distance of the opening). From there you can use a^2 + b^2 = c^2 (or to plug in the values on the diagram, 16^2 + X^2 = Y^2; to change it around ...
2
Focusing more on the wood itself in that picture my first instinct for stability and ease of assembly was to use some hardwood flooring.
Since hardwood flooring is already tongue and groove it will make for a very strong door with minimal effort. The metal would then be used to keep the wood together aside from glue possibly.
The couple of downsides ...
2
That door is held together by the metal strips across the face.
another which can be all wood would have the 'Z' on one side. You can use any wood, pine would be fairly light and easy to move, but easy to ding up. Oak would look nice, but be a little heavier, but a good rolling system shouldn't make it a big deal.
ETA:
when making one of these it is ...
2
If it's sealed well, any wood should really be sufficient. Cedar has a little more natural rot repellent, and so does Tamerack, though I haven't seen much Tamerack actually for sale.
Pine, Basswood are both a little more susceptible to sitting moisture so I would likely avoid them. Oak, maple and most decent hard woods would be fine, though a little heavy ...
2
The correct choice is an inset face frame hinge. An example hinge can be seen here, and the following is an explanation of the different terms:
Inset means the door is inside of the cabinet instead of on the front of the cabinet
Face frame designates that the hinge will be attached to the face frame, as opposed to Euro style hinges which are attached to ...
2
It would be a better idea to screw a sheet of steel to it on both sides.
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What is the drawer overlay on the 27mm panel? If it is more than 9mm you will have to use half-overlay hinges (as you won't have the 18mm needed for a full overlay.)
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If you're going to build a wall, just build a wall.
Framing lumber is pretty cheap. The only trick being that it can be a challenge to find straight pieces.
Steps:
Get your measurements for the long section.
Build the long section on the floor (2" x 4", 16" on center is perfectly sufficient as Ashlar mentioned in the comments).
Attach the built frame to ...
2
It looks like this should be repairable. I would probably use a good 2-part epoxy (like West or Entropy) to repair it because it can fill any gaps caused by missing material. Also it does not require clamping pressure like normal wood glue does.
The most challenging part of this repair will probably be making sure that the panel does not bond to the epoxy ...
2
My first thought was to sandwich the mesh between a couple of boards
There's no need to invent something new here. All the screen doors I've ever seen have the screen wrapped around a frame that's then inserted into the door.
There are plenty of articles and plans about screen doors freely available on the net, so search around for a plan that you like. ...
1
I've replaced about half-a-dozen doors over time. The old ones were mostly very tatty, old, solid-wood doors (rather than hollow-core), but that doesn't matter.
The important point is that the new doors are solid wood. This is because the new doors need to fit (exactly) the existing door-frames ... and it is a lot easier to cut 10mm off the side of a ...
1
Use a router to deepen an existing hinge mortise. With a steady hand, this can be done without any guide. Use a straight bit and carefully remove the wood to make the mortise deeper.
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I believe you are looking for a set of connected Pivot Doors like this.
Your hinge mechanisms need to be connected so as one moves, the other matches.
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The main reason for stiles traditionally being full length is because (on typical doors which open to the side) the hinges are mounted on the stiles, and the stress of opening and closing the door is concentrated where the hinges are, so the long-grain strength of the wood in that area works to your advantage.
Otherwise, that opening/closing stress would be ...
1
Consider expansion/contraction across the grain. If your stiles are flexing, then it's better to let them move independently, instead of having a rail top/bottom that isn't going to flex at the same rate. (You could design around this by pinning the outside and letting the tenon float toward the inside, but that probably makes a less substantial joint.)
...
1
FWIW I wouldn't use wax for anything I wanted to actually be protected.
There are a couple of things you can use here but I think what you'll end up picking is waterbased poly, for the same reason it's chosen by many for driftwood projects — minimal colour change.
While barnwood and driftwood projects are often finished matt I'd use a semi-matt or satin ...
answered Apr 8 '18 at 12:20
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1
If I doubled up two sheets of 3/4" plywood, would it offer the same or better fire protection?
Unless it's plywood treated with flame-retardant, no. Regular plywood has basically zero fire rating. Type X 5/8" gypsum drywall has a 1-hour fire rating.
Why would you want to build a fire barrier out of something flammable?
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If the tools in the wonderful answer from Graphus are not available to you two saws would do this for you just as well.
regular hand saw
keyhole or compass saw
(source: globalsources.com)
First the hand saw would be for the long straight cuts and you could switch to the keyhole saw for the curves. The first real problem you have is making the first ...
1
Just a quick note: the hardware (track and rollers) for this is available from some woodworking stores; they could tell you the manufacturer, who might have useful plans available.
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