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8

MDF is tough on blades, since it's basically sawdust and glue. You may want to consider trying a blade specifically designed for cutting laminate flooring, since the majority of the material in laminate is usually MDF. Table saw blades designed for this purpose are usually polycrystalline diamond tipped, and have a surprisingly low tooth count (~12-16 for a ...


6

I would actually tend toward bolts. Bolts with rounded heads or slightly recessed into the wood will provide holding strength with the nut at the bottom while producing the least amount if bother on the top of the shelf. This spreads the holding power over a larger area than the threads of a screw. Screws will have to go through the steel up into the ...


5

If the lumberyard selected and delivered it, I would feel comfortable returning for exchange any pieces that I could not use due to either straightness or cosmetic defects. Some yard workers will use their discretion to dump otherwise un-sellable boards on a delivery knowing that an average contractor over-buys and will sort through the pieces to find boards ...


4

The first thing that comes to mind is a nail-in furniture foot like this: Image from this Amazon product page - no endorsement implied However, that doesn't really fit with the aesthetic of your stool, and probably isn't what you're after. I would imagine that the nail would be difficult to drive straight into your thin OSB, probably wouldn't hold forever, ...


3

I finally got the time to try this out today. Dry was hopeless, but damp worked well (as suggested by descriptions like this one). I cut a couple of strips of the size I intend to use (22 mm wide by 600 mm long). The intended shape is just over a half-circle, radius 180 mm. The first I tried to bend dry. I was planning to bend it part ...


3

Isn't OSB supposed to be more stable to elements comparing to wood? Isn't that what's all the adhesive in it is for. Not be a wise-guy, but the adhesive is there to hold the little pieces of wood together. Dimensional stability is a secondary and very desirable benefit. Tables give me tensile strength of OSB few times smaller than wood. Can I replace ...


2

Isn't OSB supposed to be more stable to elements comparing to wood? Isn't that what's all the adhesive in it is for. OSB is more dimensionally stable when compared to wood. Like other engineered woods there is no grain direction so when its moisture content even does change it will not be significant in one direction or another. Plywood still has grain ...


2

I don't see any reason this wouldn't work as long as the loads on the shelf are reasonable (both the total weight and the placement of any heavy individual items). The OSB is going to be quite strong at 18mm and the portion of the cables running under the shelf will act very much like a conventional shelf support, albeit very narrow ones. The weak point in ...


2

I'm making a bar stool from OSB. I do know it's a very questionable material choice, but it fits my aesthetics OSB gets a lot of hate these days (reflected in some of its unfortunate nicknames, including Old Sh*t Board) but I think a lot of it is unjustified. The material has at least a few things to recommend it, including its high strength and moisture-...


2

Route a groove along the length. Glue a piece of hardwood into it. This will give the stool a long hard piece of hardwood to stand on and wear down instead of OSB. The stool will be elevated a millimetre or two.


2

For best results, starting over would be the way to go; no question. Adding fillers and the like will change the tonal qualities for the worse. However this your project, you can soldier on if you wish. Many instruments have been made with less than perfect material. And many instruments are quite workable with splits. Check out tone tapping wood (this ...


2

Edge gluing is a very popular way to get big panels without needing very wide lumber (which usually comes at a premium price). Your calculations are correct, in that you will need 7 1x4 boards to achieve a 24 1/2" wide panel. You'd need 8 and some extra to get the full 29 5/8". One option to reduce the number of glue joints you'll need is to use wider ...


2

I'm going to reinforce a 2.2m span of shelf made out of 18mm OSB bord with two 60*4 mm steel strips running underneath the board. My understanding is that connection points would mostly have sliding forces when the shelf is bent under load, but I'm not sure. I'll answer this from a structural engineer's standpoint (being that I am one). What you're ...


1

The first thing you will need for this project is a lot of bar clamps capable of spanning the width of the finish panel (29 5/8"). You should plan on clamping the width of the panel at least every 24" so you will need at least eight or nine clamps to spread across the 16' length. Other answers have offered good advise in starting with smaller widths of 2 or ...


1

I don't quite understand how you're getting from 24 1/2" to 29 5/8", but... Typically when you're gluing up large, thin panels (and at 3/4" thick, 1x stock would be considered thin in a piece this size) you want to have some kind of alignment aids. These typically take two forms, external cauls or internal splines/biscuits/dowels/dominos. For an external ...


1

I don't think you will have a problem bending 3mm hardboard especially in the narrow binding strips. You will have better luck bending dry than wet as wet the board will swell and come apart. If you can use a ratchet strap to pull the strip down to the chest lid I think you will lessen your chances of cracking. Gluing will cause cracking less than nails or ...


1

This may be obvious but the larger the log the more usable lumber returned. Since the lumber should be sawn to avoid capturing the pith that will limit log size somewhat. Time is the main factor. Loading a log that yields 4 1x6 boards takes more time to fell, haul, load and saw than the boards are worth. If time is casual then cutting posts from the small ...


1

I will be facing this problem soon, and I've thought of 3 ways to do this, all of which are fundamentally the same. Basically, you need to expand the dowel in the hole so that it is tight to the sides. If the dowel end can be accessed by the other (flat side, ie, it's a through- mortise), there are two options: With an undersized pilot hole, or no pilot ...


1

My first approach would be to glue some 2 cm (~ 3/4 in) strips of the same material to all the places that get screwed and to the edges of the side parts. That gives you 24 mm (~ 1 in) of material to hold your screws which should be plenty. If the stool isn't too tall the 12 mm wall material should be rigid enough to withstand the pressure of a medium sized ...


1

I know I am not really answering the question, but putting a steel strip as you describe under a shelf will do nothing to support it. For a 6 foot shelf you would need a 1.5" high steel bar (thickness does not matter too much). So, unless your "strip" is a 60mm x 4mm x 40mm bar then it will not do anything. I would not recommend a pan head screw (as in a ...


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