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We have a storage room, where a Water Heater, Forced Air compartments, and Electric box are installed as shown in Fig. 1. I am planning to install a wooden wall around all of these, which looks solid on the left hand-side that faces the main entrance to the room and comprises two adjacent Bifold doors (Fig. 2) in front of Water Heater and Forced Air compartments. This setup will allow us access the system in case of failure but covers them from outside. In order to accomplish this, I am thinking to install a L-shape lumber frame, for which one leg is fixed to the block-wall on the right hand-side of Fig. 1, and the other leg is fixed to the wall right behind of Water Heater. At the elbow, I am thinking to install a vertical lumber that is fixed to the floor and perhaps extended right to the top and fixed to the ceiling frame.

My concern is that I might be over-engineering this a bit and there might be a simpler solution other than a L-shape frame. My main goal is to have the entire construct very stable that upon opening and closing the Bifold door, the structure does not shake or budge.

I am considering Bifold doors because of ease of installation, as well as allowing air to flow through the blinds, letting the heating system cool off.

Thoughts, concerns, recommendations, and ideas are very welcome!

Fig. 1: Storage Room

Example Bifold Door

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    I would recommend a standard wood stud wall with 2x4s at 16" centers. It also looks like there is a gas line which means that you need adequate ventilation through the wall to provide adequate combustion air. You should also provide at least 3' clearance in front of the furnace and hot water assemblies for service. – Ashlar Nov 26 '18 at 3:23
  • @Ashlar thank you for sharing your thoughts. Totally agree. Regarding at least 3’ clearance for service area, I think having the foldable door provides direct access. Don’t you think that is a good approach? – Kevin Ghaboosi Nov 26 '18 at 14:43
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    This is pretty much in the wheelhouse of DIY/Home Improvement SE, no? – jdv Nov 27 '18 at 15:07
  • @jdv agree! Though thought that the question was also related to woodwork too. Will keep in mind next time. Cheers! – Kevin Ghaboosi Nov 27 '18 at 17:23
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If you're going to build a wall, just build a wall.

Framing lumber is pretty cheap. The only trick being that it can be a challenge to find straight pieces.

Steps:

  1. Get your measurements for the long section.

  2. Build the long section on the floor (2" x 4", 16" on center is perfectly sufficient as Ashlar mentioned in the comments).

  3. Attach the built frame to the ceiling, the cinderblock wall and the floor.

    • Assuming the floor is concrete underneath you will need something to drive into concrete. What you are looking for is a Ramset Driver. It uses blanks (bullets) to drive the nails into the concrete.
    • You are going to have to decide if you want to cut or overlay the flooring. It's easier to replace it in the future if you cut it; but if that is vinyl it'd be easy either way and it won't cause problems being underneath.
    • Make sure the boards on the floor are pressure treated/rated for contact with the floor/moisture.
  4. Build the short frame. Same procedure as the long frame, and attached at the corner.

  5. Finish however you want.

A nailgun will make building the frame and attaching it to the ceiling much much faster. It may be worth renting if you don't have one.

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