My bench has a 2x4 edge and if I line up the vise where the inner claw is flush so I can mount things vertically, then a little of the vise overhangs a little. Would this not be proper?

If I push it back to remove the overhang then the mounting holes sit between the 2x4 and top wood which wouldn’t make for a sturdy mount.

Any suggestions?enter image description hereenter image description here

  • It looks like the swivel base projects out from the inner jaw face so vertical mounting of longer pieces is already a problem. – Ashlar Oct 9 at 23:17
  • Yes only if it’s swiveled away from front facing of the bench – ohmmy Oct 9 at 23:18
  • 1
    As this is a metalworking vice I'm voting to close LOL Seriously though, it's perfectly fine to have a little lip of the vice base overhanging the front edge of the bench, the general rule being you want to mouth the vice "as far forward as possible". You're looking for a permanent mount solution yes, you don't need it to be quickly movable? – Graphus Oct 10 at 11:26
  • What makes it a metalworking vice? Lol not that familiar with vices. Yeah I’m looking for a permanent mount solution and as strong as possible so any future use won’t be an issue. That’s why I’m hesitating on committing without feedback first – ohmmy Oct 10 at 11:29
  • Metalworking vices have to hold smaller pieces, generally, so their clamping faces are not nearly as big as woodworking vices. Woodworking vices have faces starting around 6" wide by 4" tall and go up from there. They also will have more overhang to the sides so that you don't have the issue that Ashlar brought up (though that causes another issue, loss of clamping force from the jaw racking...) – SaSSafraS1232 Oct 10 at 21:55

Where you have your vice placed for the photos is pretty much exactly where I'd mount it, in addition to the front-back placement being ideal it appears to be nearly directly over a leg which gives plenty of support for any heavier work you may do on it.

And yes, it is perfectly fine to mount a vice with a little (and sometimes a bit more than that!) of the base projecting beyond the edge of the workbench:

Metalworking vices, edge mounting

If you look around any metalworking or machinists' forum you will have no difficulty finding pictures of vices that are mounted well back from the edge of the bench and sometimes this is deliberate, but too often it is because the user didn't realise that if you don't have the vice mounted far enough forward, so that the back jaw is at least flush with the bench edge, you can never clamp workpieces like this:

Flush rear jaw on vice allows clamping of longer pieces

Your positioning is pretty much set, but for future readers it's generally a good idea to give yourself a little extra room if possible so that the rear jaw projects a smidge beyond the bench edge, the reason being at some point you might fit new vice jaws that are a little thinner than the current ones and you don't lose the above advantage if you do so.

Couple of additional points
When it comes time to bolt your vice to your bench don't forget your washers, they're especially important up top but you may want to use them underneath also.

I would suggest you pack out the rear mounting lug to level the vice out. It isn't absolutely necessary to do this, but it's good general practice to have a vice level both left to right and front to back. You can somewhat surprisingly use card for this — make the packing a little over-thick and it'll compress down when you tighten that nut and afterwards remain remarkably stable.

  • Hey thanks for your thorough response appreciate it. The front two mounting holes are positioned on the 2x4 edge. Would it be best to use lag bolts or long bolts with washers and nuts that go through the entire length of the 2x4? – ohmmy Oct 11 at 11:47
  • Going into the long dimension of a 2x4 lag screws are almost certainly perfectly sufficient TBH. If the rear fixing needs to be a nut and bolt I would be inclined to use the same throughout (only because I'm a bit OCD that way) but the projecting nut on the underside could easily get in the way since they're so far forward. So lags could easily be argued to be the better choice here. – Graphus Oct 11 at 12:27
  • The rear would be a bolt and nut since it’d just be mounted to the top wood which is only about an inch thick. Though I might reinforce it from underneath first – ohmmy Oct 11 at 12:31
  • "Though I might reinforce it from underneath first." Also something that's very commonly done. Now a 1" top would generally be plenty strong enough, but in your case if it takes little time and costs almost nothing go for it. There's never a good reason not to err on the side of stronger where it might be useful. – Graphus Oct 11 at 12:36
  • One more thing, when choosing the bolts should I get them same diameter as the holes or can they be thinner? Curious if it matters in terms of strength – ohmmy Oct 20 at 15:48

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