I wish to patch/fill a knot hole in a pine panel at a jointed edge. The hole is only a few mm deep. I don't think doing a sawdust + epoxy/shellac/glue filler will sit well with an oil finish, and I've managed to do without it this far -- so I'm considering trying a special patch.
What is the best way to make a dutch patch containing a knot (or even better, a semi-circular knot!), without the branch loosening out of the patch as I cut it?
It's knotty pine, so having just that one filled might look odd, hence why I'd prefer a "knotted" patch over a sawdust fill:
*Edit -- Fixed it. Reporting on results *
Following advice in the answers and comments, I've accepted to use non-wood products into the table. I figured that in the worst case, I could still do the patch. But I am quite satisfied with the results.
A small tube of "Dark Umber" artist oil paint bought at local craft store.
A "syringe" of clear 5-minute epoxy bought at the local hardware store
In clean plastic container add, in one corner, a dab of (yet unmixed) epoxy, and in another, a smaller dab of paint. Using a toothpick, stir gradually more and more of the pigment until desired color is obtained. Create a gradient (mess) of colors to pick from. (full res)
Mix in fine sawdust from a scraping session, which yields a more matte and opaque result. Without sawdust, the cured epoxy is very vitrous and transparent. You can also obtain opaque epoxy without sawdust by using more pigment.
Use the toothpick as an applicator on the work piece. Disturb as little as possible what is already filled when adding more. I accidentally created mini air bubbles when trying to "pack" more in. (full res)
Waited 16h (the recommended full-cure time on the product), and removed most of the cured excess with a sharp chisel. Then card-scraped the rest. I'm pleased with the results. (full res)
Note: The addition of oil-based pigment to an epoxy resin reduces the final hardness of the cured epoxy. This might be important to consider when using epoxy as an adhesive bond between two objects -- but it doesn't matter as much when used as a filler. In fact, the cured epoxy obtained is much harder than the surrounding wood -- can't sink or scratch it with fingernails.
Rectangular dutchman patch: What is the difference between a dutchman patch and a butterfly patch? (https://makezine.com/projects/dutchman-wood-repair/ )
Filling void with epoxy: Voids, epoxy and staining compatibility (It's the only such repair on the panel, and I consider it too small of a fix to be worth "emphasizing" with colored epoxy, plus the whole color matching issue)