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I have a curtain pole (made of some type of softwood) with a 35mm diameter. I have some finials with a 25mm recess that I would like to attach to the pole. I am a DIY noob and have very little in the way of tools.

What would be the best way of attaching these so that there is a decent enough connection (but is also not permanent - i.e. glued - so that I can take the curtains off in the future)?

Initially I was thinking of filling the finial recess with wood filler, so that it is flush, and then using hook and loop to attach to the pole, although I'm not sure that would give a very good finish as the finial would not appear tight to the pole.

  • There's no easy good fix I can think of here. Filling the hole so that you can attach it to the end of the pole temporarily like you envisaged may be the best idea, if you use a fine-textured filler you could stick the finials on with PVA and the glue bond should be weak enough that you can just pop the finial off the end of the pole with hand pressure or a light knock when you need to get them off in the future. – Graphus Aug 12 '17 at 22:15
  • How deep are the recesses in the finials? – MarkH Aug 14 '17 at 7:24
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If the recess is deep enough, I would try attaching the finial with magnets.

Neodymium disc magnets are cheap, and even small ones can hold over 1Kg, which should be more than enough for a finial. You can get them with countersunk holes to attach with screws.

For this to work, the finial recess needs to be deep enough to hold a pair of disc magnets. I would try it this way, using magnets with countersunk screw holes:

  1. Screw one magnet to the end of the pole. Make sure it's centred in diameter of the pole.

  2. Screw the other magnet inside the recess of the finial. Be careful to centre this one too.

The magnets need to be in contact when assembled, so you will need to adjust the spacing by packing washers behind one or both magnets. Once you're close enough with the washers, you can then make micro-adjustments by backing out the screws slightly. For example, if you can get the magnets to within a few millimetres by packing with washers, then you can unscrew one of the screws by enough to let the magnets touch when assembled. So long as they're close enough to start with, they'll pull themselves together over a short distance.

That's not really a woodworking answer, but that's what I'd try first. The other options involve either reducing the diameter of the end of the pole, or widening the recess in the finial, and neither of those options are very easy, especially for a beginner. A slightly easier version might be to cut down the end of the pole to a square cross-section, then chisel out a corresponding square hole in the finial.

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    This is a great idea, but it can be implemented more simply. You just need one magnet per side, and something for the magnet to stick to. The flush heads of one or more steel screws in the opposite side should work fine. And basic disk magnets can be used instead of the ones with countersinks in them, just superglued or epoxied in place. – Graphus Aug 14 '17 at 12:12
  • Good point. I had suggested magnets with countersunk holes to allow for fine adjustments with the screw but your way doesn't need that. Simple disk magnets without holes are really cheap - I did a quick a search and found packs of 50 for a pound or two. – MarkH Aug 14 '17 at 12:19
  • that's exactly how i did it! I used false through tenons to cover the lag bolts on my bed - see the last picture here lumberjocks.com/projects/259786 – aaron Aug 14 '17 at 12:30

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