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One problem I tend to have in any shop that I work in, is when I'm cutting a full 4x8 sheet of plywood and I butt it up against the fence, it always budges; even just 1/32." I always end up using a track saw when I need to make super precise, but is there a way to stabilize the fence to keep it from moving so easily? I feel like there has to be some way to lock the other side of the saw fence (ours isn't locked on both, just the front has a lever to put pressure on the fence to not move). It is similar to this table saw.

table saw

  • I recommend you add a couple pictures of your rip fence (what you're calling the 'saw guide'), one of which shows a close-ish view of the "rear" of the fence. The approaches will depend a lot on the specifics of the fence, most of which can be inferred from a picture. – scanny Aug 8 '17 at 20:02
  • Sorry, new to Stack... Added photo now. – Dedi Aug 8 '17 at 20:18
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    Just to clarify, you're saying the fence is moving from left to right at the front (along the rail)? So the locking mechanism doesn't lock it down well enough? – SaSSafraS1232 Aug 8 '17 at 20:27
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This is what's known as a Biesemeyer-style rip fence. A search on "Biesemeyer fence rigidity" yields interesting results, in particular this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alcXY7y4NS0

Apparently, 1/32" (0.030") is not unusual deflection for this cantilevered style of fence. The approach to stabilizing it seems to be clamping the end to the table. That might be tricky given your outfeed table setup.

The video mentions tuning the saw blade alignment to reduce the pressure on the fence.

Another possible approach, used on my Euro-sliding table saw, is to place an adjustable stop behind the end of the fence, which stops deflection in one direction only (away from the blade), which of course is the only direction that matters. This does a nice job for me. You'd have to see how to rig one up on yours, perhaps with a series of mounting holes akin to dog holes in your right-wing table into which you can mount a block with a rod running through it that you can bring up against your fence and clamp in the block with a thumbscrew or such.

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You might try using one of those magnetic 'finger dealys' designed to hold your wood against the fence when cutting, but place it on the far back side of the fence to keep it from drifting.....have to be a little experimenting to determine the right amount of force to use before turning the magnets on (draw a line when you find your sweet spot with black marker). I don't see a splitter? Is there one? If not I strongly advise it, even cutting large pieces of ply. Also remember, many want to make sure that far edge of their fence is slightly out of line about the amount you are having problem with (a splitter makes that less necessary). If that plywood enters the blade at the right amount, and the area before the blade is secure (with a Bessemer-type fence should easily be!!), why doesn't your cut come out as you like it? The fence your using is one of the better type to use in my humble. Does it lock down nice and tight? Don't feed to fast.....if you have a sharp blade and your feed rate is right, you probably can do away with your problem right there (plus believe it or not, if you practice this in the presence of a splitter problem solved?).

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