Although that's not the finishing process I'd use everything you did there was right on the money, until the very last step — you didn't let the product dry for long enough before putting it into service.
Briefly, the dry time between coats is just enough to make putting on the next coat work well but the product is likely not fully dry by then and it's certainly not cured (the part of the drying process that occurs after the drying phase). After the initial drying products like this cure by oxidation and while the process is sped up with the additional of metallic driers to make it more user-friendly it's still something that takes days to complete minimum, and more likely a week or more despite what the product literature might say or imply.
Now all of the above is based on average room temperatures. Both stages, drying and curing, are greatly sped up by high temperatures and slowed by low temperatures. 45-60°F (7-16°C) is at the low end of viable temps for finishing* so more time should definitely be allocated.
Obviously your house will be warmer than your garage and it's often done to take a finished project into the house to complete 'drying' and while it's doing so it shouldn't be used. Given the strong odour of many products like this many people wouldn't want to anyway!
But, my problem is i am seeing oil still seep out of the wood grain in tiny dots that are surfacing hours after I wiped it down.
That's perfectly normal on oak which has large, deep pores. All it is is uncured oil seeping out, and you just need to wipe it away until the process stops. It shouldn't take more than one or two days at room temp but until the finish has fully cured if you heat the surface again with hot plates or waffles you will very likely get a recurrence, since any partially-cured oil in the finish can liquefy when heated and capillary action will tend to bring it to the surface.
The kids ate breakfast on it this morning and placed hot waffles directly on the table top and it left a cloudy mark where the waffles were (looks like it knocked the sheen down and turned it to a matte finish in those areas).
Again to be expected because the finish hadn't had a chance to harden up.
Fixing the matt/matte areas
You may be able to just buff the surface to a uniform sheen with a cloth and plenty of elbow grease. If this doesn't work then wiping on a fresh coat of finish and buffing it off should do the trick (tip: don't just wipe away the excess, wipe hard, buffing the surface well for a good 5-10 minutes).
How long to wait before putting a piece to use
Products like "Danish oil" vary a lot from maker to maker and additionally how much was initially applied, the absorbency of the wood, the temperature and humidity and how thoroughly the excess was wiped away are all factors in the 'drying' time. And the expected use of the piece is a factor too.
For a sideboard that'll just sit there and look pretty just a couple of days would usually be sufficient. But for a working table it's good to err on the side of caution and wait at least a week. Waiting longer isn't at all a bad idea. Many pros err on the side of caution and wait a month or more, when possible, after the last coat has gone on.
*If temps are hovering around 45-50 moving the piece indoors to finish is a good plan, and where that's not an option serious consideration should be given to holding off until the weather is warmer.