I tried to do something like the first picture in this article and it was a disaster. I was working with 3/4" maple and bit dug in, chewed it to pieces, and eventually broke the piece in half. I have a fresh, sharp bit, a powerful router, and I was moving the right way past the bit. What did I do wrong? Should the router be on high speed or low? What else affects my chance of success?
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4Did you adhere the template to the workpiece with double-sided tape? Also, a picture of the setup and the results would go a long way in helping diagnose.– scannyCommented Dec 27, 2016 at 0:29
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I used hot glue. Is double-sided tape recommended?– Chris NelsonCommented Dec 27, 2016 at 2:20
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I'm sure hot glue is fine. The article doesn't mention sticking the template to the work, but of course you must somehow. And of course you need to use a bearing to ride against the template. But all these and more details are answered in an instant by a picture of your setup and results.– scannyCommented Dec 27, 2016 at 2:22
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3How much material were you trying to take off in one go? Were you working an end-grain or long-grain surface?– GraphusCommented Dec 27, 2016 at 9:12
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1I rough cut within 1/8-1/4" of the template. The shape was an arc which aligned with the grain, at worst around 40 degrees across the grain and getting shallower.– Chris NelsonCommented Dec 27, 2016 at 13:12
1 Answer
This is a very dangerous task if you don't know what you are doing. There are a couple of issues here that can lead to blowout.
First, as Graphus mentioned, is the amount of material you are removing. I would recommend being as close to 1/16" as you can comfortably get with your rough cut.
Second, when you are climbing the curve, so to speak you are going against the grain, and particularly with a straight cutter like is shown in that image, you will be fighting that the whole way. It will want to grab and as soon as it does, its going to pop on you. I prefer to avoid straight cutters in this scenario. I would recommend a spiral cutting bit, to help minimize that blowout and tendency of the bit to grab the material. Freud Spiral Flush Trim
Lastly, for tighter radius parts, it is often worth it to work the piece in halves, flipping the part for each half to always be working with the grain. You can either flip the pattern to the other face, or switch between a flush trim and pattern bits as needed to accommodate.
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A close rough cut is a good hint. (Though a $100+ bit isn't happening.) Not working against the grain is great. Flipping could definitely work with this. Thanks. Commented Dec 30, 2016 at 2:53
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Yonico makes a 1/4" shank one for much less. Whiteside makes a 1/2" for a little less. No relation just some searching. I've used both companies with no problems.– Dano0430Commented Dec 30, 2016 at 20:29
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Yes, Freud is an expensive option, but was really just showing an example. Hopefully flipping the part works in the mean time. Commented Jan 3, 2017 at 10:50