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I'm making a corner shelf for spare toilet paper rolls from 6.5 mm laminated plywood.

I'm going to order CNC cutting of the shelf.

I want to go some fancier way than just screwing l-brackets to the wall and the shelf, for the sake of experience.

I came with idea of using this style of joint to connect the plywood to the wall: enter image description here

On this picture -- the wall would be vertical, and I'd have anchors installed in it. The bolts would replace the nuts, and I'll need extra groove for a hexagon to rotate the nuts into wall anchors.

The question is: Is there some specific bolt head type best suited for this kind of job?

Ideally, I would go with a cam nut: enter image description here If I can find one, that's half as deep as usual.

  • maybe i'm misunderstanding some part of this design geometry, but why wouldn't standard toggle bolts work here? – aaron Aug 5 '16 at 16:20
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    I'm misunderstanding your statement, "the wall would be vertical, and I'd have anchors installed in it." Does that mean the wall replaces the vertical board in that drawing? If so, what parts need to be cut that you're getting CNC machining? – FreeMan Aug 5 '16 at 17:36
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    I would not rely on the "cam nut" for a cantilever shelf. It will eventually, if not immediately fail. Interesting design, but I think you need a couple of more design iterations before you grab at this one that looks extremely underdeveloped – Ast Pace Aug 5 '16 at 20:10
  • I don't see any dimensions, but if it's for holding toilet paper and it's only 1 roll of toilet paper deep, it's not going to have to bear much weight. A butt joint <snicker> with glue would be strong enough; maybe stronger than those cam nuts. Your top picture looks like it will have extra surface area so the nuts and bolts wouldn't be strictly necessary unless you need the shelf to hold a significant amount of weight (i.e., a LOT of TP, or something heavier than TP). – rob Aug 6 '16 at 0:39
  • When you ask "Is there some specific bolt head type best suited for this kind of job?" I would think not. As long as you can screw it in from that back, make a clearance hole for the threads you wouldn't crack the wood, as many knows. And then get a bit (be a wood bit or spade) and make a hole a little bit into the wood for the bolt head to sink into so its not popping out on ya. And if you need one that is "half as deep as usual" I helped my friend and we cut it with a reciprocating saw then took a belt sander (60 grit) and sanded the end (there could be some damaged threads) and it worked. – Ljk2000 Aug 6 '16 at 14:01
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There are many different types of hardware suited for this type of joint.

Rafix is another similar type, but it simpler to machine for. You just have to drill a single hole at the edge of the part as opposed to two holes (one of the face, one on the edge) required for the Ikea type of furniture cam fittings you show above.

enter image description here

As far as using the joinery from the first picture, all that would require is machine screws and square nuts.

  • Depending on country you might be able to go to Ikea and buy their bolts and stuff by the gram as spares. – LosManos Oct 2 '16 at 18:29
  • Yes, this one would also work for me. The problem I have is that the thinnest rafix I could find is 10 mm, and my shelf is 6 mm. – Gleb Jan 15 '17 at 17:51

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