A "climb cut" is called such because the workpiece wants to "climb" over the blade--or, if the workpiece is fixed, the blade wants to "climb" over the workpiece. Where do you think Galoob got the idea for THE ANIMAL monster truck? Some guy trying to make a deep climb cut with a rip blade on a circular saw, no doubt.
Some people use a very shallow climb cut with a tracksaw or circular saw as a scoring cut to prevent chipout on the subsequent cut, so I suppose there may also be people who use the same technique on a table saw. But does that mean it's justified? No, not when there are safer ways to achieve the same result.
But what if I find a case in which I need to make a climb cut on the table saw?
On a normal table saw, don't do it. But assuming there was some legitimate reason to make a climb cut on a table saw and it could be done safely, I would use a blade with a negative hook angle and would insist on using a saw with an active safety system like SawStop or REAXX. I wouldn't even begin to consider taking anything more than a scoring cut (1/32" or less, depending on the material), and even then I would want to use a big heavy sled and would want want the workpiece strongly secured to the sled. That said, I would still highly recommend against making the climb cut in the first place.
That said, it's worth noting that some high-end panel saws/sliding table saws have a scoring blade that makes a very shallow scoring cut (using a reverse-spinning blade; i.e., a climb cut) before the wood reaches the main blade. On these high-end saws, the scoring cut is very shallow and the wood is securely clamped to the sliding table, so the cut is reasonably safe. It's significantly more dangerous to attempt the same cut on a normal jobsite, contractor, or cabinet table saw, even if you follow the extra precautions that I outlined above.
Why is it so dangerous?
There are many serious problems with making a climb cut on a table saw, but here are a few that I hope scare you enough not to try it:
- You can't use a riving knife to prevent kickback in the event of the material pinching the blade or binding between the blade and fence (or is it kickforward in this case?)...more specifically, you have to remove the riving knife to feed the material into the back of the blade, and you cannot install the riving knife at the front of the blade.
- If the workpiece gets pulled away from you, you may be pulled with it, right into the blade.
- The higher the blade is, the harder you will have to fight to keep the workpiece from being lifted off the table and rolling over the blade. And harder you're fighting to keep the workpiece down, the more you'll slip when you lose control.
- If you're feeding material from the back of the saw, the OFF switch is on the other side, far out of your reach...so you can't turn off the saw partway into your cut when you begin to realize what a stupid idea this was!