The door hinges seem to be not lined up with the cupboard panel. We will eventually replace it all but for now I need a way to either fix or reinforce the door so it doesn’t keep coming off the cupboard enter image description here

EDIT: I’ve got two options in mind. One is to try and fill everything with wood filler and then re-align the hinges again, which I’m not sure how strong it’ll be and the other is to use metal backplates to bolt the hinge attachments to the door but I feel this will still mean the door will still fall off over time but the hinges are may be more securely attached. Though I’m open to other options of course!

  • 1
    Welcome to WSE. Your question may be unclear. Is the problem the tear out on the particle board panel or that this is not the original door panel and the hinge locations do not match?
    – Ashlar
    Commented Mar 31 at 1:23
  • 1
    The hinge locations match close enough for it to latch on but not quite perfectly which causes the door to collide when closing with the other door (double doors on this cupboard). This (I suspect) has then caused some strain on the hinges over time which then loosens them, making the door eventually fall off completely multiple times (and yes also the tear out) Commented Mar 31 at 5:25
  • 1
    It's very unclear what's going on here with half the hinges not in the images, but if your problem is primarily the stripped screw holes we have more than one prior Q&A that cover options for that. In this case I would strongly recommend filled epoxy since I've used it for screw-hole repairs on a hinge holding heavy cupboard doors (mostly glass) which have held up well since (3+ years). After filling and waiting for a full cure (at least a full day if not longer) you will need to re-drill pilot holes and cautiously reinsert the screws so as not to over-tighten and risk stripping the holes.
    – Graphus
    Commented Mar 31 at 6:11

2 Answers 2


It wasn't entirely clear what the main issue was here, but from the additional info it appears to be primarily the stripped screw holes and the surrounding damage.

Given the material is chipboard/particleboard I think the top pick to make the repair is filled epoxy1. In addition to other advantages it has zero shrinkage, and can bond to irregular surfaces probably better than anything else using the tip that follows.

Commercial epoxy putties can be very good, setting strong and hard, but many (most? all?) lack the kind of adhesion you can get from a 'wet' putty you've made yourself using liquid epoxy with added filler. And you can go even further to ensuring a really excellent bond, and consolidating the broken material in the holes, by pre-wetting all relevant surfaces with the initial mixed epoxy (i.e. before blending to make the filler). This gives a bond that no I think no premade putty can match.

I've used this method for rebuilding the stripped screw holes for a hinge holding heavy cupboard doors (mostly glass) and the repair has held up well. Checking it recently there is zero play in any of the screws after 3+ years of the door seeing daily use.

  • Use at least a 30-minute epoxy for this, you'll likely need the extra working time if this is the first time you're using it in this way.

  • Warm the areas to be filled one at a time with a hairdryer just prior to applying the liquid epoxy — when it touches the warmed surface the epoxy will immediately become more fluid, allowing it to wick into the surrounding material much better.

  • You will need to re-drill pilot holes for the screws.

  • When reinserting the screws tighten them cautiously so as not to over-tighten and risk stripping the holes.

  • You need to wait for a full cure before drilling and inserting the screws for the material to be at maximum strength. I'd suggest waiting at least half a day but 24 hours is better, irrespective if the initial cure time is only an hour — even 5-min epoxies can take 16 hours to achieve full strength o_O

  • But if you need to sand the fill flush do so before full cure. This will be sometime after it has set hard but will still sand without clogging; try it at around the hour mark and see how the sanding goes; if the abrasive clogs, wait longer.

1 Liquid epoxy blended with a dry powder, including fine sawdust, sanding dust or 'wood flour' (commercially made fine wood dust). If necessary you can use cornstarch or wheat flour.

  • 1
    So this is the first problem. The second problem is that the hinge keeps detaching from the mounting plate the right side door doesn’t seem to have this problem and somehow has less hinges, but I suspect this door is misaligned. I tried to post an album of pics but the link isn’t allowed apparently (stackexchange has automatically filtered it out) . The closest thing I can find on google is this: “BLUM 33.3600 (133.024)” if you search that it should show up with the type of hinge we’re dealing with and hopefully give you a better picture Commented Apr 1 at 11:03
  • 1
    If the hinge keeps detaching, it’s more likely hinge wear than misalignment. (Though you can adjust those plates up/down.) Suggest you try new hinges and if that doesn’t work, you can reposition the mounting plates with the epoxy advice above. Commented Apr 1 at 12:54

Google “euro cup hinge screw insert“

Drill out the stripped screw holes and put in the inserts. Reattach your hinges. They have a number of adjustments in the x y and z axes, so you should be able to align them.

plastic doohickeys Image source, https://www.amazon.com/Hinge-Dowel-Screws-Pack-Hinges/dp/B005MXBPHM —- absolutely not a recommendation.

  • These are unfortunately unsuitable, the bits where the door and cupboard attach by the hinge are parallel to each other when shut instead of 90degrees. It’s a really weird one Commented Mar 31 at 5:21
  • 1
    @UmayrDawood those inserts have nothing to do with the way the door closes - it's just a method of securing the hinge in damaged hole. It would work with ANY hinge. But I agree with you in that it probably won't work - but not because of how the hinge works, but because of the amount of damage visible in your picture.
    – Jan Spurny
    Commented Mar 31 at 12:49
  • Oh sorry, I didn’t see the inserts at all and thought you were talking about the hinge 😅 Commented Mar 31 at 19:43

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.