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enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here This is about 20 to 30 degrees from the plane.

Can I make this without a CNC ?

I can't find a router bit with this kind of angle, and a bearing at the end.

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    Can you find that angle router bit without a bearing? If you could, you might add a bearing to the shaft and use a top template. Jan 5 at 14:11
  • Yes I can find a router bit without a bearing. But wouldn't the additional bearing be on the wrong side for this ?
    – alecail
    Jan 5 at 14:44
  • You’d have to build a template that the bearing could follow. I can’t draw it this instant, but if you need a drawing, I can produce it tomorrow. Jan 5 at 20:42

2 Answers 2

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Make a template of the curve for the top of the board, then insert a templating collar in your router base plate.

The collar will follow the template and you can use any bit you'd like sticking through it to cut a round over, chamfer, ogee, or other profile you'd like.

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If you can find a suitable router bit sans bearing as you indicate in the Comments, this is a fairly routine template-routing job. It can be done either on a table (with the fence well back or removed) or with the router hand held.

Protip for smoother results: add a strip of tape to the outside of the collar (or the template) when removing the bulk of the material. Remove the tape for one final pass, sometimes called a dust pass for fairly obvious reasons.

Alternatively, and much faster if you're set up to do it — you'll be done before a router bit can get to you..... even if you selected expedited shipping :-)

Hand tools
How many of these do you have to do? This absolutely screams hand tools if it's just for a one-off. But there's still a good case to be made to the hybrid woodworker for doing it by hand if you need a few, and there's no expectation of having to do repeats in the future.

  • Plane the easy part (the basic chamfer on the straight edge).

  • Now shape the curved profile as you prefer — jigsaw, bandsaw, coping saw/bow saw, spindle sander, rasps/files and hand sanding, any combination.

  • Then for the chamfer on the curved portion, spokeshave. Scraping and sanding (with a hard backing {dowel} to maintain crisp edges) to finish off.

Marking out for depth on the edge and projection onto the face will help greatly in achieving uniform results. This might seem tricky once the edge curve is made since most of us don't have pencil gauges that'll follow curves (and I don't believe any are commercially available). However, careful 'finger gauging' should actually prove sufficient and as always is instantly available.

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    Just a quick note about the projection of the edge onto the face. This is actually really easy, in the case where the path is a sequence of lines and circle arcs. The curved part of the parallel path shares the centers of each circle arc. You can just draw both at the same time with a compass by changing the radius. And the linear parts are trivial, just parallel at the offset distance.
    – alecail
    Jan 6 at 20:32

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