# How to route smoothe, diagonal S-shape onto edge of wood board?

I have a wooden table that’s extendable. Unfortunately, i let the middle extension piece slip away at some point, and now I’d like to recreate it.

I found wood with the correct thickness and length and width. I can create dowels and dowel holes to fit it where the old one went. Staining it the correct color might take a couple of tries but I’m sure I’ll get it.

The last thing I need to know how to do is to craft the accent edge of the board to match the rest of the table:

A = 3/8" - diameter of large roundover part of ogee

B = 5/8" - radius of ogee (about 1 1/4" diameter) NOT 1/2" like in picture

C = 1" - total vertical length of ogee (1" cutting length, is this called 'carbide length'? )

I have learned that this was probably made with an ogee bit. My plan is to start with a 1/4" cove bit. This will create the start of the profile. Then do something (??) so that I can use a 3/8" roundover bit on the rest of the way (how do I get this bit to work inside half the cove?).

Is there a particular router bit that would make this job easier? Or another tool that’s good for the job? I have a 3D printer that might come in handy for some kind of mold or guidepiece, but I’m not sure how I would even use it. I have never used a hand router before, just a dremel. I’m not sure how to use the router to get consistently straight passes like in this video: https://youtu.be/npqBGB_9DTo?si=ZG2luexM0psTzvJL

Last step will be to smooth off the bottom corner, which I will just sand (that part doesn’t need to match as perfectly)

• I have updated the question with the dimensions of the ogee... Commented Nov 20, 2023 at 15:01
• Is the table solid wood? Since you're going to have to color match anyway, why not refinish the whole thing, and while doing so, re-mill the edge to match whatever ogee bit you end up using. If you get a cutter which is pretty close, you won't have to take much off. It'd be nice to see a pic of the whole table as well. Commented Nov 22, 2023 at 16:04

Unfortunately, there isn't a standardized size/profile for an Ogee edge, and you will find plenty of options available online, home centers and woodworking specialty shops. Finding a match to your profile will require perseverance and luck with many variations and profile thicknesses having to be satisfied. At best you will most likely only find profiles that are similar, but not exactly the same. As you question suggest, it is also possible to match sections of the profile and create the profile with multiple passes at different depths, but the issue there is to maintain a straight line. To do so you will need a router table so that that a fence is controlling the line of the bit instead of a wheel on the bit. If you try this approach, I recommend that you set up practice runs on scraps to before attempting it on your actual tabletop piece.

Common alternatives to bits in motorized routers include

• handplanes made to cut locally common molding shape(s) used to be a feature of a good cabinet maker's shop, and can sometimes be found used (in variable condition, of course).

• "scratch stocks", which are essentially a scraper blade ground into the right shape plus a handle to keep them from drifting from a specific position relative to the reference edge. Some have made them out of "retired" bandsaw blades, I'm told. More suited to small details than to, say, shaping the edge of a tabletop. But for a relatively short cut, the advantage is that with enough patience and dexterity you could file one so it's cut exactly matched your existing profile.

Just to point out the obvious: if you are going to use a non-lace tablecloth, exactly matching the decorative curves and colors is less important than getting the size and doweling right. If your concern is this holiday season rather than next year's, you might want to go with ugly-but-on-time rather than Fine Furniture Someday.

(If you're building a leaf to complete it for its own sake or for resale, if course...)

• Ok. So if you want to match the profile using a router, and can't find something in a woodworking store that's a close enough match, and can't find molding in a lumberyard that's a close enough match to affix to the edge and call it good, and don't want to spend lots of time taking measurements and hunting through catalogs, router table and multiple passes with different bits at different heights and different fence positions seems your best bet. Definitely run scrap first to check that your sequence does what you think it will. The bottom radius would probably be a separate pass anyway. Commented Nov 20, 2023 at 3:22