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Update: I went back to store and they told I will need to by plugs for corners. I returned these skirtings and now back to regular skirtings which work with miter and coping.

I am using this skirting: https://www.kwantum.nl/plint-wit-eiken-0392535

And I cannot figure how to do inside or outside corners on this. Due to the peculiar back profile, typical 45 degree cuts are not really working.

Any tips?

Update: based on comments - If text is not clear enough, there are images of couple of rough cuts I did. I hope that helps.

I have a mitre gauge from Wolfcraft - this one - https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/IMAGERENDERING_521856-T1/images/I/610EXfqhQVL.jpg with accompanying saw and a jigsaw. I do not have a coping miter saw at the moment. The problem I am facing is non-flat back profile on the plinten. That is making the angle calculation a bit tricky. These also lay at an angle to the wall from front so I would always end up with an upside down V like opening on outer corners. A little geometry application revealed that the bottom edge (one of the floor), may never intersect at the point in same vertical plane as the corner edge of the wall.

So, a little more digging around and I found that there are plugs for the corners which are needed for some skirtings.

Skirting 1 Skirting 2

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  • Can you clarify what tools you’re using? That profile shouldn’t present any issue with normal tools. Commented Mar 28, 2023 at 19:46
  • Hi, welcome to Woodworking. We need a little more detail than just "typical 45 degree cuts are not really working". In what ways is it not working? Can you post one or two photos showing us the problem(s)?
    – Graphus
    Commented Mar 28, 2023 at 22:56
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    "Any tips?" Are you familiar already with coped joints? (This is where the coping saw gets its name in English, although its use has extended far beyond just doing coped joints.) For outside corners there is no real choice but to do mitres – although they might not be 45° cuts because building work is seldom precise – but for inside corners are you aware of the main alternative, to scribe? This is always a useful option to doing mitres, but it's particularly helpful for non-90 internal corners because you don't need to measure the angle and then divide it in half accurately.
    – Graphus
    Commented Mar 28, 2023 at 23:03
  • @AloysiusDefenestrate, I imagine part of the difficulty is in workholding, with that non-vertical front and the cutaway back corner.
    – Graphus
    Commented Mar 28, 2023 at 23:08
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    Is the "update" that appears at the top of your question actually the answer/solution to the problem?
    – gnicko
    Commented Mar 29, 2023 at 15:18

1 Answer 1

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As alluded to in the comments, the right way to do internal corners is not to mitre, but to cut one piece square, and then scribe the profile onto the other piece, and cut it away. When shrinkage/movement causes the two pieces to separate, the resulting gap is much less noticeable.

For external corners, you have no alternative but to mitre. I think the solution is to clamp the skirting to a vertical piece of board (possibly held vertical by being screwed to a block of wood), and then cut the mitre.

Alternatively, if you are cutting with a circular saw, set it to the right angle, and place the saw on the back of the skirting.

Looking at the edited question with pictures, I think the problem is that you are cutting a 45-degree angle where you measure the angle from the front. You absolutely have to use (the top of) the back of the skirting as the reference.

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  • Thanks for response. I added more details to the challenge I have. May be that can explain better on the problem I have.
    – Danish
    Commented Mar 29, 2023 at 8:12
  • Top notch. And I need more characters :-)
    – Graphus
    Commented Mar 29, 2023 at 17:31
  • Agree that the mitre box appears to be not-tall-enough and that you need a taller fence to align the entire back of the base to. Commented Mar 29, 2023 at 19:45
  • Also, if this is the unit you have, amazon.com/wolfcraft-6948200-Bevel-Mitre-Boards/dp/B01LWROHZI/… then the saw that comes with is a japanese type pull saw. So instead of having the handle of the saw in front of the baseboard (as pictured), you need to cut from the other side to get less tearout of the 'skin' on the exterior of the baseboard. Commented Mar 29, 2023 at 23:32

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