Procedure for ripping 4x8 sheet goods on a smaller European slider table saw?

Question

I'm currently shopping for a table saw and am trying to decide between an American-style cabinet saw with a sliding miter table attachment (think like a Sawstop), and a European-style sliding table saw where the whole left table slides past the saw. One important thing that I would like to do on the machine is rip 4x8 sheet goods, like plywood, in half, into 2x8 sheets.

By and large, I like what I have seen of the European-style saws. The assembly of the sliding table to the saw itself feels much more solid, and seems like it would make much more precise and repeatable cuts (not that I've differentially measured between two individual saws of the style) than the add-on sliding miters that are made by Sawstop or Harvey. However, I do not believe I could fit a full 8+ foot sliding table for ripping the sheets[1]. I'd be limited in size to something like a Minimax SC3, which has a 5'5" slide capacity.

I've tried to find YouTube videos that show someone ripping a full 8' sheet on one of these smaller saws, but all I could find was people with larger saws using the sliding table for the job. If you own one of these smaller sliding table saws, do you handle large sheet rip cuts on it? If so, how do you handle it? Do you, for example, lock down the sliding fence to handle the outfeed, and then push the sheet through against the rip fence like you were using an American-style cabinet saw? Do you do something else entirely here? Do you just not use the saw for this job?

I appreciate any information about any procedures you might use. Sometimes watching YouTube, it feels like everyone just has the gigantic saw for the job!

[1] When I need to rip the full 8 feet, obviously I'll need 8 feet behind the blade, but I can open a roll-up door behind me to get the extra capacity.

Answer 1

Frame challenge: I think a strong argument can be made that this is a job better done by other means.

These days the primary other means are a circular saw run against some form of straightedge (or a more formal jig made for the purpose) or a commercial track saw.

These allow for the type of cut you intend to do to be made in a more consistently safe way¹, with sufficient accuracy for most purposes² plus reducing the amount of lifting and manoeuvring of full sheets.

In support of the theoretical arguments is this: many owners of table saws made some form of DIY track saw, and in later years bought commercial track saws as their availability and popularity grew, specifically because of how difficult, tricky or just plain tiring long cuts on sheet goods can be when tackled on the table saw.

Their reasons may vary, but the wide adoption of the method speaks volumes for which is preferable to owners of both tools. Some, including numerous pros, went on to use those exclusively/almost exclusively for initial breakdown cuts on sheet goods.

A few related Answers from previous Q&As:
4'x8' length cut - circular saw, table saw, or panel saw?
Straight cuts in plywood without a circular saw
How can I accurately cross-cut a board that is too wide for my table saw?
Cross Cutting Large Boards (4x8) Stock?

While I don't want to guide you specifically towards a track saw I did fell I should include this article on Family Handyman, Benefits of a Track Saw

When I first laid eyes on a track saw, I thought, “I have a table saw. I have a straightedge to guide my circular saw. Why would I spend $500 (or more) on one of these contraptions?” I was sure it was another tool gimmick for suckers. Then I talked to track saw owners, from cabinetmakers and flooring installers to trim carpenters and remodelers. Every single one of them told me that buying a track saw was a smart move. Now I own one too.

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¹ An understatement with conventional table saws.

² High enough accuracy for any purpose if you buy the right track saw or take extra care in setting up your DIY equivalent.