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My budget and shop space aren't generous enough right now for a jointer, so I plan to do the best I can for edge jointing using my table saw. I know it isn't ideal, but it is what I've got to work with.

What type of table saw blade would give me the best results for this usage scenario?

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    "I know it isn't ideal, but it is what I've got to work with." I wouldn't worry about that, whatever works. And since you have a table saw already you might as well get max value from it! And as some guides do mention, one of the key advantages to doing jointing on the TS used to be that the work is being done by carbide teeth, which don't care about more blunting woods, plywood and OSB the way steel jointer knives do (now with helical heads available this is no longer as much of an advantage though).
    – Graphus
    Jan 31, 2022 at 15:03
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    BTW if doing some of your jointing with a hand plane isn't viable for you for any reason do look into the router option as well. Routers are under-valued for jointing as it's something they can excel at, producing glue-ready surfaces safely and using standard (cheap!) bits.
    – Graphus
    Jan 31, 2022 at 15:06
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    When doing jointing on your table saw, you want the smoothest possible cut. There are disks made that are designed to be clamped to one (or both?) sides of the blade. I believe that these are claimed to reduce vibration in the blade and give you a smoother cut. The manufacturers, of course, swear by them, others may disagree. YMMV. A search for "table saw blade vibration dampener" turned some up. You might want to consider adding one to your tool kit - I have no personal experience with them.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 31, 2022 at 17:30

2 Answers 2

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Jointing on table saw is rip cutting, so often I have read advice to use good rip blade. Many recommendations today to use high quality glue-line blades so jointing step can be skipped.

But this is not for all jointing, can only be skim cuts. I know many table saw owners use general blade for this because each pass is to remove very little material: 1-0.2mm (1/25"-1/100"). Teeth must be clean for good results.

Recommend you read general advice on choosing good blades to begin. Start here in article by Tim Johnson on Popular Woodworking.

Jointing on the table saw by George Vondriska on Woodworkers Guild of America recommends a thin kerf 40-tooth alternate top bevel blade, says it works great up to 3/4" but thicker than that and the results deteriorate. Suggest you also read responses below.

I think above page must be based on SawStop demo, because same images in Wooworkers Journal article but text is different. Again suggest to read comments.

Much advice on table saw jointing can be found on YouTube. Videos available from Fine Woodworking, Pask Makes, 731 Woodworks, 3x3 Tamar and others.

Please do not forget hand planes not obsolete for jointing! While you are still reaching for ear protection before turning on table saw and dust collector hand plane user has already finished first edge :)

Router also very good for this task. My preferred method if using power tools to joint edges because much cheaper, faster setup?, better dust collection, edge quality superior, much safer.

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    Extra +1 for last two points if I could!
    – Graphus
    Jan 31, 2022 at 15:07
  • @J... that is not jointing.
    – Volfram K
    Feb 1, 2022 at 10:00
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What type of table saw blade would give me the best results for this usage scenario?

Any blade appropriate for ripping that gives a smooth cut is fine. If you have a rip blade, great. If you only have a combination blade, but it leaves a smooth surface, fine.

...I plan to do the best I can for edge jointing using my table saw.

Note that there are at least two ways to do this. One is to use a jig with an offset similar to the difference between the infeed and outfeed tables on a jointer. This makes your saw work almost like a jointer.

Another common method plays to the strength of a table saw. When used for ripping, a table saw makes the cut edge parallel to the edge that rides along the rip fence. Therefore, if you attach the board to be jointed to a board or sled that has a straight edge, you can cut a straight edge on a board that doesn't have one. There are clamps made for this operation which join two boards edge to edge, or the board to be straightened can be clamped on top of the sled with toggle clamps. A nice thing about this method is that it works for boards of any thickness (up to the capacity of your saw, of course), and you can cut a straight edge in one pass. Even if you have a jointer, this is a useful method for boards that would need many passes on the jointer.

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