ROSs are finish sanders, and not well suited to bulk material removal (except for beasts like the Rotex). But of course you can fit a coarse disk — and I mean really coarse1 — to any ROS to make it very aggressive.
But maintaining flatness when removing this much material with a rotary sander is not easy..... I'm actually doubtful a dead-flat surface is actually achievable this way.
Belt sanders are more well suited to removing this much wood, but again they're not exactly built for achieving large flat surfaces. Although there are some strategies for helping to maintain/achieve this2 even users familiar with their belt sanders talk about it being challenging.
In the absence of a wide-belt sander that can do the whole tabletop in single passes the ideal way to do this is probably using a router sled. Router sleds are very well covered online so if you have zero familiarity with them you'll have no trouble getting up to speed. Here is a previous Answer that gives an introduction; the links may have gone stale now since this is from 2016, but you'll be able to re-find the same content easily enough.
You can do this kind of thing via hand planing, same as had to be done with riven boards in the past which would be approximately this rough.
Not gonna lie, this requires a fair bit of sweat equity but not quite as much as one might imagine if the proper methodology, i.e. traditional practice, is adopted. Space doesn't allow for a full description of the process, but you'd begin with a plane set up for hogging off lots of wood3 and use it in traversing passes (wood puts up much less resistance when you plane across it) until the surface is flat-ish, then switch to a jointer to flatten off, then smoothing plane if needed, followed by whatever finishing steps you favour.
Obviously the above does require at least three planes, and some familiarity with using them.
You could fill the texture. This can be done using a pore/grain filler naturally, but you can also do it entirely with a clear finish. If your tabletop is as rough as the one you linked to you'll still need to do a fair bit of sanding naturally, but you'd only be removing a fraction of the wood you'd have to otherwise.
Neither method may give you exactly the look you'd prefer, but they are a lot less work overall and the flatness of the final surface is much more assured.
1 Like 60 or below.... 36 grit if available.
2 Working across two diagonals, followed by along-the-grain passes. Also you can fit or make a sled to a belt sander to help prevent it diving in.
3 A roughing/scrub plane, a fore plane set up the traditional way, or a jack plane set up as a 'roughing jack'.