I am using an Ikea dining table as my work table. It works wonderfully, is made of quality pine and looks good. Recently, I was considering adding a VESA table clamp monitor stand but the table has a skirting less than 1" from the edge. This would make it hard for the clamp to have good purchase on the surface and bear weight.

Here is a picture for reference:


My idea was to buy a standard plank like this 1"x6"x4ft hardwood and glueing it using wood epoxy and/or other fasteners to the side or the back edge of the table. I can then use this overhand to add the VESA stands and maybe another microphone stand.


The things I am absolutely unsure of:

  1. What thickness of plank do I need? My monitor is about 22 lbs and maybe another 10 lbs for the microphone. Will a 1" plank be think enough, or do I need a 2"x6"x4ft plank?
  2. Is wood epoxy strong? Would it be better to reinforce the join with screws? I don't own a drill currently, but I can borrow one (and maybe some expertise) from my neighbor if needed
  3. Do I need to sand the joining surfaces?

but above all: 4. Is there a much better solution that by novice brain will not be able to come up with? :)

Any and all advice would be appreciated. I have not done wood working since high-school, so all advice, no matter how basic is really appreciated.

This is the table I am talking about and these are (monitor, microphone) the stands I am looking at.

Edit: The skirting on the side is 2.5" high and 1" from the edge of the top surface.

Edit2: Came up with another idea - I could cut a small 1/2" channel in the 2.5" side surface as such:


Here the pink solid shape is the area I would drill out. I'd then have to find a solution to reinforce the skirting (in case its load bearing).

  • 1
    @Fred_dot_u's Answer probably covers this sufficiently that I don't feel I should add a competing one but I wanted to address some of your points. Firstly, for the weight you're intending to add and the shallowness of the shelf you don't need to worry about making the new projecting 'shelf' thick. 1" pine (nominal thickness, it will likely be 3/4" in reality) is absolutely fine for this. I have seen pine workshop shelving that is taking a fair amount of weight which are under 1/2" and they don't bow! [contd] – Graphus Sep 1 '20 at 8:38
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    2, 'wood epoxy' isn't a thing. Just use a standard 2-part epoxy in 2 tubes or the double plunger. Longer setting time = stronger, but 5-min stuff is probably sufficient. 3, yes! Only freshly-worked wood glues well. And there might be a thin layer of finish on the underside of the tabletop. Most tabletops are actually not finished on the underside, but there is a chance there is. And you must sand anyway so.... check for finish first by putting a drop of water on the wood where the 'shelf' will go, if it beads up and is never absorbed there is finish so you'll need to sand quite a bit. – Graphus Sep 1 '20 at 8:43

Mounting a monitor (selected as the heavier of the two) to a stand or arm assembly will change the leverage the mount can place on the foundation. If you consider the monitor directly above the base, the force is vertical and represents, generally speaking, the weight of the monitor and assembly.

As the monitor is moved forward, the leverage increases, effectively increasing the force on the base.

Using both wood glue and screws would result in a joint of greater strength than either alone. The glue is going to be clamped by the screws, which is easier than managing an edge clamp without screws. Screws alone are subject to movement which can loosen over time. One could periodically re-tighten the screws, but eventually the forces would work to strip out the holes.

Avoid attaching to end grain. Sand both surfaces, clean both surfaces, but do not create curved edges which will result in gaps between the two pieces. If you can get long enough screws to pass through the additional board, ensure that the holes you pre-drill to prevent splitting are square and centered in the board.

Another method of attachment with screws is to use pocket screws and appropriately drilled holes. It has the advantage of shorter screws and somewhat hidden holes.

Number four is more an addendum than a stand-alone answer. Using the portion of the table which hangs vertically, you can place a bracket of a form similar to a gusset, screwed and glued to both the add-on board and the vertical portion.

Sam's Metal Works has a more elaborate item than my suggestion, but it serves as a useful example. Consider the triangle to be constructed from solid wood, perhaps scraps cut from the board purchased for the extension. They would mount in a manner similar to a shelf support, providing additional torsion strength.

shelf supports

If the added plank is an overlap, you gain substantial strength. You can get away with a 1" plank if you provide the under-surface support, as it will resist twisting. Without the under-surface support, 1.5" should be oka.

  • 1
    Dear @fred_dot_u - thank you for taking the time for the detailed suggestion and the product suggestion. Adding a corner support like that on the legs seems to be the most ideal solution for now and I'll try to come up with a plan to use them. I have about a 2.5" skirting in the side I can try to attach the supports to. I added a diagram with my original joining intent above! Thanks for your response! – shaunakde Aug 31 '20 at 23:22
  • It was difficult to determine from the image, but I thought you were trying to create a butt joint, rather than an overlap. I've added a bit to the answer. – fred_dot_u Aug 31 '20 at 23:38
  • apologies for the bad diagram earlier. That's why I thought i'd draw some diagrams in paint and update the question. Thank you again for your time! – shaunakde Aug 31 '20 at 23:59

Many monitor stands have the option of mounting with a clamp through a hole in the table as well as a clamp at the edge. This allows the mount to be placed further in from the edge. The hole is not ideal in a table used as a temporary desk, but is penalty fine in a dedicated deal if the monitor arm will be a permanent addition.

  • Dear Stephen, This is an excellent suggestion and is probably the one I'll go for in the short term, as I build up the confidence and skill to actually do modifications correctly! It was cheaper to buy this table then and actual desk with equivalent space. Also I appreciate having real wood over MDF! – shaunakde Sep 2 '20 at 6:16

A complete alternative is what I have right here, which avoids cutting or drilling into your existing table.

It's an offcut of 28mm beech kitchen worktop (the cutout for the stove/sink combination in my campervan, tidied up a bit) on kitchen cabinet legs. Worktop and legs are both from Ikea, though the legs are discontinued. The overall height is about 20cm, and the monitor stand clamps onto the back. I've got a nicely variable height monitor stand to go with it. Stability is perfect as the centre of gravity of the stand+monitor is over the middle of the shelf, which is 28cm front-to-back

It's a nice bit of extra space as well.

Desk stand

My desk is fairly tidy by my standards at the moment, but I did have to redact a bank statement.

  • 1
    Thank you for the response. This is great and much better for my current skill level. I found some short legs in wood at home depot with a 5/8th nut fitted in. I'll try to do this in the upcoming weekend – shaunakde Sep 4 '20 at 21:54

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