It's funny that all of the answers have talked about how to prevent snipe, but nothing actually addressed your question of how to fix the board now.
I would glue "rails" onto both edges of your workpiece that are thicker and longer than the piece itself. They will have to be long enough on both ends to absorb the snipe that you're getting, and the thickness should ideally be just thicker than the workpiece.
If you only got the snipe on one side of the boards (i.e. one side was jointed then the other planed) you can leave the workpiece proud of the rails on the jointed side.
If you have snipe on both sides then ideally the rails should be parallel with the workpiece (i.e. the overhang is even all around.) to reduce the amount of material you'll lose by re-milling. Then start by jointing the rails until they're flush with the board.
Now you can plane the board. The rails will have snipe, but the workpiece should not. Once you've taken a pass that hits the entire surface of the board you can rip off the rails on the table saw.
(Although, if you've just got one board that's not too big I'd probably just hit it with a #7 or #8 hand plane.)
Another alternative that I just thought of is to "gang" the board up with scrap wood. If your workpiece is narrow enough you can run a scrap board before it, then run your piece alongside the end of the scrap, then feed another piece of scrap in alongside the end of your workpiece. This will have the same effect of putting the snipe on the scrap instead of your work.