Timeline for Is it a problem if my countersink bit is slightly larger than it needs to be?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
5 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Dec 4, 2016 at 8:57 | vote | accept | Firsh - justifiedgrid.com | ||
| Dec 2, 2016 at 17:54 | comment | added | BrownRedHawk | It sounds like you're using a 2:1 and wanting to drill and countersink in one operation. Some 2 part counter sinks can have the bit in the center adjusted, just as you can buy countersinks that affix to regular bits with set screws. Making this adjustment, or purchasing a secondary countersink might be the way to go. Using a drill press with a depth stop is the ideal way to do this. | |
| Dec 2, 2016 at 7:21 | comment | added | scanny | @AaronD raises a good point. Unlike in metal, the depth of a countersink in wood is unlikely to be the precise point where your fastener stops moving further into the wood. Especially in soft woods, plywood, MDF, etc., you'll probably need to experiment to determine just how deep to countersink to get the screw head depth you want. | |
| Dec 2, 2016 at 5:49 | comment | added | AaronD | Depending on the material, it might work (emphasis on might) to countersink to the head's exact diameter and then tighten it enough to mash itself in for the last ~0.5mm or so. Doesn't always work though. It's basically another method to split, given the wedge-shaped head, and it might depress the surface in that area by compressing the material under and around it, so you'll have to weigh those risks. | |
| Dec 2, 2016 at 2:01 | history | answered | scanny | CC BY-SA 3.0 |