Timeline for When it comes to removing multiple layers of paint from a flat surface what are my options?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
15 events
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| Apr 5, 2016 at 8:12 | comment | added | LosManos | A friend of mine used a powered handheld plane (after trying chemicals and sanding machines) and was happy with the result. Be light though, powered planes eat wood like teenagers eat cereals - fast and rough. | |
| Mar 28, 2016 at 18:00 | comment | added | Graphus | @tl8, Surforms are a type of rasp in essence. I don't think they were ever intended to have just one use, i.e. to be used on wood only, so I'm sure you can use them to remove paint (although the surface underneath may be left quite rough).. | |
| Mar 28, 2016 at 11:24 | comment | added | tl8 | I don't know their intended use, but I have seen these in the shop, and can't help but think that this might be the tool for the job. Stanley Surfoam Plane | |
| Mar 27, 2016 at 17:38 | vote | accept | Matt | ||
| Mar 27, 2016 at 17:36 | history | edited | Matt | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Mar 16, 2016 at 15:32 | comment | added | Graphus | @WhatEvil, yes that is very affordable. I'd consider that cheap. Locally they're waaay more expensive than that at retail outlets. | |
| Mar 16, 2016 at 15:20 | comment | added | WhatEvil | Admittedly "cheapness" is subjective but I've just checked and found Mirka (a good make) belts for £11.40 for a 10-pack which doesn't seem bad to me. | |
| Mar 16, 2016 at 15:06 | comment | added | Graphus | @WhatEvil, obviously the definition of cheap is partly an individual thing, but belts are certainly not as affordable everywhere (particularly for a good one). Here, buying retail, one decent belt would cost almost exactly the same as an entire pack of name-brand sandpaper. Dubbing over is the traditional term for dipped or rounded over edges. | |
| Mar 15, 2016 at 15:03 | comment | added | WhatEvil | I'd personally be tempted to give it a go with a belt sander. belts are cheap and they should last a while even taking off paint. Also most belt sanders have built-in dust collection and I find you get low dust release using a shop-vac. What is "dubbing over"? | |
| Mar 15, 2016 at 8:32 | comment | added | Graphus | @Matt, two of the best links for you on this IMO. First is from StumpyNubs, who converted the poor HF "Winsdor Design no. 33" plane (cheapest plane on the US market I believe), linkee, and Paul Sellers talks about scrubs in a historical context here. Don't worry that opening the mouth of a no.4 will ruin it for its primary purpose, the size of the mouth can play no major part in smoothing if you use the cap iron properly (set very very close to the edge). | |
| Mar 15, 2016 at 8:19 | comment | added | Graphus | @Matt, you'd know if you had a scrub I think because they're narrower than a standard bench plane and have a single iron (no need for a cap iron). Because scrub/roughing planes are rare-ish the majority of people who want one these days end up converting another plane, often a beater since this is for rough work. An alternative is having a swap-in iron for one of your other planes, although with the low cost of many 2ndhand planes (cheaper than new irons!) I don't see there's much reason to go this way unless you're just really dedicated to doing the most with the least amount of kit. [contd[ | |
| Mar 14, 2016 at 19:27 | comment | added | Matt | Don't have a scrub plane. I think i only have smoothing planes and a jointer plane. Will have to check the numbers. Would love an excuse to use hand tools effectively. Likely I will get the paint of and plane it as I plan to laminate with this wood. Thanks Graphus | |
| Mar 14, 2016 at 18:40 | history | edited | grfrazee | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Mar 14, 2016 at 18:39 | comment | added | grfrazee | +1 for using a scrub plane, if the OP can tolerate the end result. | |
| Mar 14, 2016 at 18:06 | history | answered | Graphus | CC BY-SA 3.0 |