Timeline for When it comes to checking in logs what should I expect?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
11 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Aug 27, 2020 at 10:53 | comment | added | Graphus | It should be clear you seal the end grain. The inherent water in wet or 'green' wood is lost much much too quickly from end grain for safe drying, which directly leads to cracking of this sort. After effective sealing drying IS slowed quite significantly, which is the point. Outside of drying in a kiln environment, or forcing seasoning in another way, the ONLY way to dry wood well is to do it slowly. | |
| Aug 26, 2020 at 13:34 | comment | added | Joshua Frank | @Graphus: How does it lose moisture at all when waxed? I would have thought that wax would be impermeable to water and this would prevent drying completely, or at least for a very long time. | |
| Dec 11, 2019 at 8:19 | comment | added | Graphus | @ww_init_js, they're easier to apply (use a brush) out in the yard, and readily available commercially, for consistency and stocking reasons etc. Other than that what's left on the wood is basically just wax, after the liquid component the wax is emulsified into has evaporated. | |
| Dec 11, 2019 at 7:57 | comment | added | ww_init_js | For those interested in reading more about this, the different types of cracks and checks are described in Air Drying of Lumber: A Guide to Industry Practices Pages 79,80,... . The book talks about applying "emulsified waxes".. not sure how those differ from melted waxes. | |
| Dec 11, 2019 at 7:42 | comment | added | ww_init_js | I do a similar thing I do to wax a snowboard. I place aluminum foil over a clothing iron (to keep the iron clean), and I just melt a paraffin block (for canning) over the hot surface of the iron. It starts dripping very quickly, and I can control where the wax goes, and there's no pot to wash. Be careful to not burn yourself, naturally. | |
| Nov 24, 2015 at 10:11 | history | edited | Graphus | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
Minor wording change to remove possible ambiguity
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| Nov 23, 2015 at 23:41 | comment | added | Matt | @ASTPace Hoping to use a froe yes. Have to go to the junkyard this week. I will find something constructive to melt. Possibly look at commercial options but I doubt it. | |
| Nov 23, 2015 at 23:27 | comment | added | Ast Pace | @matt canning wax, bees wax, old color crayons (I know this one appeals to you) will do the job and can all be readily melted in a pot on the stove top. They melt faster if you grate them or cut them into small pieces. As far as being screwed, you're more in the foreplay stage and likely the checks are still shallow enough that some small boards can be salvaged. Planning on using a froe? | |
| Nov 23, 2015 at 19:33 | comment | added | Graphus | @Matt, yes you pretty much have to melt a candle (or more than one for a large area). It doesn't stop the drying process, it stops it going much much too fast. "Am I screwed with this log now if I tried to make small boards?" Impossible to tell for sure, but checks do tend to start shallow and small and then get bigger and deeper so chances are they're only superficial for now. | |
| Nov 23, 2015 at 16:37 | comment | added | Matt | I have questions now that I am not sure if they should be their own topics. 1. Waxing makes sense. Doing it with candle wax seems like a pain.. Do you have any tips... perhaps melt a whole pot maybe. 2. Does using wax does not stop the drying process... but does it take a lot longer because of it? 3. Am I screwed with this log now if I tried to make small boards? They don't appear to go that deep yet. | |
| Nov 23, 2015 at 11:01 | history | answered | Graphus | CC BY-SA 3.0 |