Timeline for Can I put pocket-hole screws in the edge of board?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
10 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jul 27 at 14:28 | comment | added | quill | Perhaps there is a glue to consider for chairs, which might one day need to be again be disassembled for repair. Hide glues would work of course but I see now that plastic resin glue has a warning 'for interior use only', which suggests if a joint were glued with it, it might be possible to disassemble without damaging the wood. But - that would also allow the possibility of spilled liquids spoiling a joint. | |
| Jul 9 at 14:02 | comment | added | quill | Not all old repairs with improper glue amounts, pressure and bad technique are slapdash. It might be the work of someone without equipment or experience. I am certain I have made multiple fixes that might look slapdash now but remember, they were done by someone without experience (me) or tools at a time when ARPANET was a concept and resorcinol glue was easy to purchase. | |
| Jul 9 at 13:45 | comment | added | quill | To replace the broken dowel would require disassembly of the other back rail joint, as well as more woodworking tools and experience. Adding modern glue to the joint on just one side could prove a hindrance in the future when someone with the additional time, experience and equipment repairs the other side. | |
| Jul 9 at 5:48 | comment | added | Graphus | @quill, "since it is an end grain situation" It's not. The major 'limb joint' if we can call it that is end grain to long grain. That's completely different to end grain meeting end grain (even in conventional wisdom, which has been challenged recently). The primary glue surfaces are the dowels and their respective holes (as evidenced by some woodworkers, and many factories, choosing to not apply any glue to the flat surfaces or being so slapdash as to apply far too little and then compounding the problem by not applying sufficient clamp pressing along the correct axis). | |
| Jul 8 at 13:14 | comment | added | quill | @mobeets suggestion of treating the 2.5 inch thickness like two 1.25 in pieces is a good idea because it will minimize the chance of the top screw colliding with the bottom screw deep in the wood. | |
| Jul 8 at 13:01 | comment | added | quill | If a chair is being partially reglued, that is only a few joints, some day other joints may fail. When that happens the first repair might have to be broken in order to disassemble enough for the later repair. This I've experienced over the years. Now if the entire chair is being reglued, a modern glue is more likely to be appropriate. Glue here isn't going to be as effective since it is an end grain situation. | |
| Jul 8 at 12:56 | comment | added | quill | To @Graphus comment on glue, my experience with glue on chairs is now quite cautious. As a young wood worker I too went with the idea of using glue to correct a loose chair joint - sometimes creating a future major repair requirement. Some glues (hide is an example) can be easily and quickly repaired while typical 'yellow' glue, epoxy glue and ureaformaldehyde do not. | |
| Jul 8 at 7:09 | comment | added | Graphus | Uh, if you can prep the wood well (not always possible with a repair) adding wood glue always helps. Doesn't matter which combination of side grain and end grain there is, it helps. | |
| Jul 8 at 3:06 | comment | added | mobeets | Thanks for the vote of confidence that going in on the top would be fine, as well as the suggestion about using a pipe clamp! The reason I asked about the length of screws is that this jig only has screw lengths for up to 1.5", but as you might be able to tell from the photo, this wood is more like 2.5". But if I'm doing one on top and bottom, maybe I should treat the thickness as 2.5/2 = 1.25"? | |
| Jul 8 at 0:42 | history | answered | quill | CC BY-SA 4.0 |