Top new questions this week:
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I've cut a worktops to size out of 18 and 26mm thick plywood (26 = 2x 18mm) and I'd like to sand the edges of these to a nice smooth finish of exposed plys... but with the thinness of the tops, I'm ...
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Last year in our renovation we had our builders convert this 19th century mahogany veneer sideboard into a vanity for our bathroom. Unfortunately they didn’t treat the top of the vanity to protect it, ...
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Greatest hits from previous weeks:
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After you've fabricated your pieces, is it better to "glue-up", then stain? Or is it better to stain first, then glue? What's a good rule-of-thumb?
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Sometimes when I apply polyurethane, for whatever reason, it's not completely smooth. Maybe a brush mark here and there, or a couple little nibs, etc.
The advice I see often is to sand the area ...
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I'm comparing it to mineral spirits essentially. Are they the same on wood? Mineral spirits seems to strip off any finishing on wood, will WD-40 do the same?
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I tend to like power tools, because I need a lot less 'skill' to get the same quality product. However, I do like learning hand tool techniques and sometimes they are just as good or better than ...
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I'm sure that people have seen this where you would be painting something white or lightish colour only to have the resin from the knots bleed through paint sometime later. Similar to what you see in ...
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The glue I’m using says it dries in an hour but cures in 24 hours. What is the difference and is there benefit in leaving clamps on for the full 24 hours? Assume strength is important.
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Can I speed up stain drying with a hair dryer or a heat gun?
Is there any reason not to?
If it matters: In my case Minwax Wood Finish or Varathane brand, oil based, not gel, referring to all coats ...
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